Crash Test Dummy: Cars and Driving 101

Car Musings: Chivalry, Equality, and Female Drivers

2008-10-25T00:44:00.000-07:00

On my way home from work yesterday, I started thinking about car chivalry, equality, and female drivers… The following are some random musings on car chivalry, female drivers, and gender equality.

“You never learn to swear until you learn to drive.” – You spot it on tee-shirts and bumper stickers, on blogs and articles, and you nod and chuckle at how this amusing saying seems to be all too “spot on” when it comes to your driving experiences. So maybe that famous phrase isn’t supposed to be taken too literally—I mean from what I remember, I started swearing like a sailor long before I started driving. But the point is, driving does teach you to swear and swerve, block, and even intentionally overtake one driver and to slow down just to piss that person off. And why? Simply because that driver was rude enough to cut you in an intersection and nearly cause you an accident. Okay, so maybe you have a reason to be genuinely pissed off, but exactly how far are we (today’s drivers) taking this driving-induced, shorter fuse?

Has the automobile, one of the most important and convenient inventions of all time, really caused us to lose more than just our tempers, but our manners as well? See, this is the part where chivalry comes in. Let me start off with a simple definition of this fast-becoming ambiguous term.

Chivalry: a type of behavior associated with knighthood, but used in the modern times to refer mostly to man’s chivalry towards women.

When the world’s first feminists started the movement to free women from the unfair, gender-based restrictions implemented by society (male-dominated, no less), I bet they weren’t thinking—“men should act like pigs around women”.

Equality doesn’t mean “be rude!” On the contrary, it means “be considerate”. Women aren’t weak creatures who really NEED special attention, ok so maybe sometimes we do but guys do too—sometimes. But I think that sometimes some male drivers tend to take this “bid for equality” too far when they start haranguing female drivers because they drive too slow, or it takes them a while to park. Oh yes, I’m sure you’ve encountered a number of websites solely dedicated to showing the world how women are such bad drivers—a hasty generalization too, might I add!

Never mind that Danica Patrick and hundreds of other female racers around the world are trying to prove this generalization incorrect. Most guys I know see Danica Patrick and proudly exclaim how they have the magazine where she shows up wearing a bikini. Brain cells start to drip out my ears every time they go into that discussion. Sure, she’s beautiful, but let’s not forget that she’s also mighty talented too!

And let’s not even touch the numerous jokes about women being bad drivers and all (with pictures). I’m a female driver and I can take a joke or two about bad SOME bad female drivers, but when this generalization is taken to the streets, and you’re trying to squeeze in your car inside an ultra-small parking space in the mall and the driver behind you starts honking and cursing at you…that’s something else completely. When you step out of your vehicle, you see the lot of the spectators rolling their eyes and mouthing “see, told you it was a ‘she’.” And a middle-aged guy attempts parking in a nearby space and takes twice as long, and nobody pays attention… I don’t know if that’s what you call sexism or double standards, but it sure as hell ain’t right.

But maybe there’s still hope for car chivalry out there—provided of course that it’s mixed with a healthy dose of equality. Women aren’t really as dependent as we used to be, but some random acts of kindness like the three examples listed below, does feel good once in a while.

Opening Car Doors for Girls. The good news is that car chivalry isn’t completely dead, just dormant in most people. A lot of male drivers are thankfully not as narrow-minded as the chuckling folks in the mall parking space. In fact, I know quite a few guys who still open car doors for their ladies. The guys I know who don’t open car doors for other people use feminism as an excuse—“she can do it herself” is said with a smug beam.

Guys, don’t you know that while yes, women can open car doors themselves, opening your vehicle’s door for your lady is the modern day equivalent to a bouquet of flowers? Well, maybe not a bouquet, but women do appreciate it when you remember this chivalrous act every time you go out with your girl. And you shouldn’t really do it as a one-time thing either! Show your girl how much you care by opening your car door for her each time you go out.

Letting You Have the Last Parking Space. This one I’m yet to see, but a female friend of mine does swear by her story. It’s the last parking space on that floor, although there was another parking level upstairs. She rounded a corner only to be met by another driver. For a moment she thought she’d have to head upstairs and start hunting for a decent parking space once more, but amazingly, the other driver smiled and indicated that she should have the parking space instead. There was no ulterior motive; the guy was just really nice.

Letting the Other Driver Pass or Overtake You When You’re Not In a Hurry. If you’re not in a hurry to be anywhere, anytime soon, then it would be really nice if you let the driver who’s in a hurry or late for a meeting behind you to overtake your vehicle. You don’t have to stop completely just to let her pass; all you have to do is proceed to the side of the road and slow down until the other driver passes you. Now that wasn’t such a big sacrifice, was it?

These are just some of the car-related chivalry acts I’ve experienced or heard of from my set of female friends. Now, if only more male drivers could be as gallant as the drivers who practice the three examples mentioned above…

Cooking with Your Engine: Kooky or Brilliant?

2008-10-22T04:14:00.000-07:00

God, I love the World Wide Web. Mainly because I get to find the craziest and yet smartest ideas there. Human beings are so resourceful. I actually saw various entries on how you can cook meals as you drive. Okay, so I’ve heard about those car ovens, car cookbooks, and even car coffee pots out there. And since according to the U.S. Vehicle Study in 2005, a human being spends around 4 years and six months of his life just waiting for a red light to turn green, cooking while driving or waiting for a “go-signal” from the traffic gods doesn’t seem like such a bad idea, right?

Apparently cooking with your engine, also known as engine-block cooking is a practice done by hundreds of people around the world. You can check Youtube if you don’t believe me. But either way, creating a great gourmet meal while you drive off to your desired destination sounds like a great deal to me. So how exactly do you barbecue or grill a chunk of meat while driving without poisoning yourself with water-coolant mixture?

It starts with grade-A planning of course. Follow these steps to create a great meal while taking a long road trip.

Step #1: Figure Out What You Want to Cook—and Be Realistic with your Choices. I don’t need to tell you why minestrone or any other soup is a bad idea when cooking using your engine block. Aside from the mess the fluids create each time you brake, you’ll also have to worry about fuel contamination and car problems caused by having so much soup sloshing around your car. Also remember that cooking on your engine block is going to take a bit longer than when using a conventional oven. The good news is that your cooking time is sure to be at least an hour shorter when you make a meal in your hotpot. Although I haven’t tried this, I’m going out of town with my boyfriend next week, so I’ll be sure to get a barbecue or potato dish in while he drives. People who have tried this say that cooking with your engine is essentially a lot like braising food. Not bad, right? You can also use your engine block to warm up pre-cooked foods. The point is, try to find food that will end up cooked by the time you pull over. As my grandfather used to say, “nobody wants to eat a half-cooked potato”.

Step #2: Determine the Cooking Mileage of the Meal You’re Planning on Cooking. There’s this book out called “Manifold Destiny: The One! The Only! Guide to Cooking On Your Car Engine!”. Personally, I think the book’s title would be better without some of the exclamation points, but I’ll probably buy it because it’s sure to be an interesting read. Some Carbeque cooking times (yes, they call it carbeque) include: Sliced Potatoes: approximately 55 miles, Shrimp: around 30 to 50 miles, Chicken Breasts: 60 to 70 miles, Salmon: 60 to 100 miles, Chicken Wings: 140 to 200 miles, and Pork Tenderloin: around 250 miles. If you, like me, are a novice when it comes to carbequeing, I suggest we stick with simply heating and hopefully not burning pre-made sandwiches. Also keep in mind that cooking mileage varies from engine to engine and driver to driver. If you’re stuck in traffic for a while, pull over and check on your food after around fifteen miles. If you’re a quick driver, add ten miles to your carbequeing time, that sort of thing. Don’t worry, I’m positive we’ll get a hang of this eventually.

Step #3: Prepare your Meal Like You’d Do If You Were Cooking Using an Oven. Make sure you have the right recipe, okay? And again, stay away from sticky soups, stews, and sauces.

Step #4: Wrap Your Food Tightly Using Aluminum Foil. Make sure the entire food is wrapped completely in foil to avoid contaminants from poisoning you. Use heavy-duty aluminum foil that won’t tear while you travel. When wrapping your food in foil, make sure you first apply some cooking oil and/or butter on your aluminum foil. This would keep your food from sticking to the sheet of foil. Lay down your food in the middle of your aluminum foil sheet and start wrapping tightly. Fold over the food at least twice to keep unwanted exhaust fumes out. Or better yet, if your car has exhaust problems, don’t bother carbequeing, coz it’s better to be safe than sorry.

Step #5: Spot a Hot Surface without Plastic or any Non-Metallic Hindrance on Your Engine. Finding the perfect cooking spot on your engine means the difference between an undercooked mess and a lip-smacking great meal. One way you can find the perfect spot is by driving around for a few minutes, just enough for your engine to warm up. Pull over and turn off your engine, then pop up your hood. Lightly touch the surface of your engine and find the hottest spot available. Some people say that the hottest spot is somewhere near your exhaust manifold. I’m not sure I want to risk carbon monoxide poisoning though. >_<

Step #6: Make Sure Your Meal Fits the Space Between Your Engine and Hood. I’m pretty sure a whole pork leg won’t fit, so I suggest you go for flatter meats or veggies if you’re vegan. Make sure it’s a snug fit to avoid having your meal falling off of your engine when you’re cornering. One trick you can do is to put potato slices over your meal to act as a yummy space filler.

Step #7: Secure Your Meal Into Place. Some people actually tie their meals down. I suggest you just settle for a snug fit all around your engine block. Also, keep your meal away from your accelerator linkage and other moving parts. The stuff you’re cooking might just obstruct the movement of your mechanical parts, resulting in complete auto breakdown. And your meal gets squashed. Lose-lose situation there.

Step #8: Drive To Your Destination or Until the Food is Cooked Completely. It may take you a while before you perfect cooking mileage and all, but again, you’ll get better at it. If your food is undercooked, try driving around a bit more to cook your food.

Step #9: Remove your Meal from Your Engine. Keep in mind that your engine is going to be sizzling around this time, so it pays to use mitts when quickly removing your meal from your engine. Also, turn off your engine before you open your car’s hood to avoid getting burned.

Step #10: Enjoy your Meal. Savor your not-so-hard-earned meal. But if there’s a leak in the foil package, leave it and go to the local drive thru instead.

WARNING: Please keep your meal wrapped tightly in durable foil. When foil breaks, oil from your food or other fluids may leak, leading to an undesirable explosion under your hood. Well, not so much an explosion as smoke and some fire…but that’s essentially the same thing, right?

Top Ten Things You Should Never Say When You Get Pulled Over for Drunk Driving

2008-10-16T21:17:00.000-07:00

Just to answer your question, no I’ve never been caught drunk-driving *winkwink* and NO I don’t approve of driving under the influence of anything that could mean crashing your car or hitting anyone—or anything for that matter. And just for the record, that incident where I wasn’t-caught-drunk-driving-because-I-seriously-wasn’t-drunk-but-just-a-bit-tipsy happened when I was 18. And my dad was outside the house waiting for me—and boy, I got in such big trouble at home I was grounded for 4 freakin’ months. Mercifully, the only thing I did hit was my neighbor’s garden gnome—creepy little thing in the dark, I’ll tell you. If you ask me, I did her a favor. Although I did have to pay for it, and I’m proud to say, I’ve never driven home drunk after that incident. My boyfriend doesn’t drink, so lucky me, right?

So I’ve been prowling the intarwebs the past few days and I came across some great lists on what you should never say when you get pulled over by a cop. I decided to compile a list of my own, thanks to my buddies who happen to be the head honchos of the “major legal faux pas” department, I got verbal ammo for you. I swear, a couple of them are so experienced with getting hauled into jail every once in a while that I’m starting to think they actually enjoy the frisking. *just kidding you guys!*

And now, without further ado: My Top Ten Things You Should Never Say When You Get Pulled Over for Drunk Driving! (Hey, the title’s pretty long yeah? Next time I’ll try coming up with the longest title for a blog post—ever. Or not. Hohum.)

Note: See I’m trying to make the entry as light as possible. I know I’ve been bombarding you with info on specs and trims—and turning you into my own personal car lust confessional. So for a change, something a bit fluffier.

Warning: Don’t even attempt to utter these lines unless you’re slick enough to get away with saying them or unless you really want to get a good pat down from your local officer.

#10

Officer: ‘scuse me sir, do you know why you were pulled over?

You: Hey… aren’t you that cop from the Village People? *breaks into the YMCA dance* I frickin’ love that song!

Officer: Sir, can you give me your license and registration?

You: Yep. *fumbles with one hand for wallet* Wait, would you mind holding my beer for a minute?

(If it’s girls’ night out)

Officer: *taps on your window*

You: Hoohoo! Did my husband put you up to this? Hey girls! The male stripper’s early.

Your Cronies: Take it off! Take it off!

*while getting frisked or patted down*

You: Ohhhh… officer. Is that your baton or are you just happy to see me? *wink*

(If you’ve got your idiot buddy with you)

Officer: Sir, I’ll let you go this time with a warning… (that’s all thanks to your wicked charm and presence of mind…)

You: *trying hard to sound coherent* Yessir. Thank you sir. It won’t happen again mister police officer sir. *salutes*

Idiot Bud: *in a loud whisper that’s audible to the officer* Duuuude… it’s a good thing he didn’t check the glove compartment. Coz, that’s grade-A marijuana…

Officer: Is that beer I smell on your breath sir?

You: No officer, beer is for wimps. That’s a mixture of scotch, gin, whiskey, and maybe more than just a bit of tequila. *beams up at officer*

Officer: Do you know why you got pulled over sir?

You: The road was crooked?

*officer instructs you to walk a straight line and you end up wobbling after a few steps*

Officer: Sir, I’m going to have to ask you to give me your license and registration.

You: Wait! Wait! I’m not done yet! Itsh not my fault the ground ish shaky.

#2:

*after rolling down your window and seeing the officer*

You: Hey, it’s you again! Remember me?

Officer: Sir, I’m going to have to take you in for DUI.

You: DUI? *whew* for a moment there I thought you were going to check my trunk.

Auto Pick of the Week: the 2008 MINI Cooper Convertible (Part II)

2008-10-15T20:46:00.000-07:00

Grading the 2008 MINI Cooper Convertible

Appearance and Cabin: B

The good thing about the 2008 MINI Cooper Convertible is that driving this vehicle is sure to be a blast! The bad thing about the 2008 MINI Cooper Convertible is that for finicky drivers, that might be the one selling point his compact convertible has over its more expensive and more powerful competition. Sure, the 2008 MINI Cooper Convertible looks good, but since you’re paying a third or maybe even just a quarter of what you’d normally pay for a high-performance luxury sports car, do you really have soaring expectations about this car when placed alongside its flashier and faster competition?

Ah well, this convertible isn’t really as bad as it may seem, really. It’s just one of those classic scenarios where you get what you paid for—and just that. Read on to find out why.

Note: The 2008 MINI Cooper comes in two trims or body styles: namely the hatchback coupe and the convertible. Because this article deals with the convertible, focus on the aesthetic, performance, and safety enhancements will only include those featured in the convertible.

Performance Components:

comes with automatic up-down power windows
a dependable engine ( to be discussed further under the Performance and Safety section)
has a CD player
a powerful six-speaker stereo
is equipped with rear parking sensors
has 16-inch wheels
is available with cruise control
comes with xenon headlights
has front and rear fog lights for better visibility during adverse weather conditions
heated seats
some models come with Bluetooth
has rain-sensing wipers
is equipped with a navigation system (integrated and/or portable)
comes with a dimming rearview mirror
has satellite radio and HD radio

Available Aesthetic Enhancements:

comes with a power-retractable soft-top that has a sunroof function
available with a multi-color mood lighting
definitely customizable!
Has varying wheel designs that you can choose from
Available with either cloth or leather upholstery
Has a number of different interior color schemes
Comes with an upgraded audio system that includes the 8-speaker Harman Kardon
Can be fitted with the “Sidewalk Package” that allows you to choose from a number of other options for better interior and exterior styling

MINI Cooper Convertible Cabin:

The cabin may leave a lot to be desired, particularly if you’re not used to having a lot of gizmos on your dash. The good thing about the 2008 MINI Cooper Convertible is that it’s a lot more user-friendly than its hatchback version. The downside is that it doesn’t have as much functions and accessories as the sportier hatchback.

Contrary to popular belief, the 2008 MINI Cooper Convertible is also pretty spacious for its size. But if you happen to be pretty tall (approximately 6 feet or taller), your passengers seated on the backseat may have little to almost no legroom. Trunk space is also greatly limited in the MINI Cooper convertible, so it’s not really the ride you’d want when you’re hauling stuff from one place to another.

Performance and Safety:

Speed: B+

According to MINI, these compact convertibles are capable of moving from 0 to 60 miles per hour (MPH) in 6.5 to 8.5 seconds—depending on the type of body style you go for. It’s not really the fastest ride on the market, but it’s still pretty good, IMO. (In my opinion—lolz)

Power: A

The engine is pretty dependable and the car is quite fuel efficient—which is always a good thing. But nothing completely extraordinary when it comes to power for this convertible.

Suspension Performance: B-

Although suspension is not as rigid as it used to be, it’s still a bit too rigid for me. If you value ride quality, then this might not be the most satisfying vehicle for you.

Safety: A

Standard equipment really. The 2008 MINI Cooper Convertible has all the right equipment to keep you adequately protected in case of impact. It has side airbags, antilock disc brakes, stability control, traction control, and side curtain air bags (full-length, mind you!).

So basically, all in all it’s a pretty sweet and fun ride to have. J

Overall Grade: B+

Sources:autos.yahoo.com, Edmunds.com

Auto Pick of the Week: the 2008 MINI Cooper Convertible (Part I)

2008-10-14T21:20:00.001-07:00

Before the MINI Cooper, drivers, male drivers in particular really, rarely took the statement: “your car is cute as a button!” as a compliment. Decades ago, the trend was—“the sleeker or the bigger the better”. It was either you got a fast and flashy sports car or a monster ride equipped with jaw-dropping mags. But these days, it’s no longer about speed, power, and size—it’s also about practicality.

A MINI Cooper may not be as fast as a Maserati or as flash as a Ferrari, but it does give you “more turns for less burn!” Fuel efficient and compact, it saves you more than just money for gas, it also saves you space. Of course, this may not be the best choice for family car, but it does have its merits, right?

So, without further ado, I introduce to you the luxury 2008 MINI Cooper Convertible!

2008 MINI Cooper Convertible

Description: The MINI Cooper convertible is a carryover model from 2007. This “fresher”, 2-door convertible is capable of seating 4 passengers. Of course, a taller passenger may feel a bit “crowded” since this MINI is über compact, but what it lacks in size it makes up for gas you save. Pretty nifty, ei?

Trims: This vehicle is available in two trims: the Base and the S.

Engine: The Base comes with the standard 1.6 liter (L) 115 horsepower (hp), I4 engine that’s capable of getting in up to 23-miles per gallon (mpg) when driven in the city, and 32-mpg when on the freeway. While the S trim comes with basically the same standard 1.6-L, 168-hp, I4 turbo engine that attains up to 21-mpg when driven through the city streets, and 29-mpg when cruising on the freeway. Not bad, really.

Standard Transmission: The Base trim comes with a 5-speed manual transmission with a standard overdrive feature—though you can also get a variable speed automatic transmission if you want. While the S trim comes with a standard 6-speed manual transmission, with an optional 6-speed automatic transmission with overdrive.

MSRP (Manufacturer’s Suggested Retail Price): $21,950 to $25,400

Invoice Price: $19,837 to $22,942

It’s definitely not as pricey as the 2008 Maserati GranTurismo that I featured last week, but it does cost more than your average car. That’s one of the things I love about the 2008 MINI Cooper Convertible, by the way—it’s not as pricey as your regular convertible, but it is just as fuel-efficient.

Although the MINI has been around for decades, it’s only now that I’m starting to see how large their target market actually is! Or maybe it’s because I grew up surrounded by Japanese and American cars, so it used to be quite rare for me to see this British car that’s manufactured using the best auto technology from Germany. How deliciously international! It’s like driving a cute go-kart. Who says go-karts are just for kids anyways?

What Makes the 2008 MINI Cooper Convertible Worth Its Weight In Gold?

It’s stylish, it’s fresh and it’s fun to drive! Superb fuel economy matched with a highly-customizable appearance, what more can you ask for? It also comes with a three-year, free scheduled maintenance. Excellent news, right? Oh, oh! And the new MINI Cooper also comes with automatic up and down windows! How’s that for modern?

Possible Cons:

Okay, so all cars have their cons. Let’s just say that this hatchback may be too small for some of your taller or bigger relatives. It also gives out squeaking and rattling noises. You also get limited rear visibility for this convertible and the suspension is a bit too rigid for my liking. According to Edmunds.com, the interior controls are also a bit off-putting.

Auto Pick for the Week: the 2008 Maserati GranTurismo (Part II)

2008-10-11T01:51:00.001-07:00

Grading the GranTurismo

Appearance and Cabin: I give it an A.

While the 2008 GranTurismo retains much of the styling of the older Maseratis, it still gives off a fresher and more modern vibe. A lot of people compare the GranTurismo to the Quattroporte. Which is seriously unfair, since both cars have their merits. While the GranTurismo may be based on the slightly shortened version of the older Quattroporte, this luxury performance sports car definitely lives up to expectations, and not just in the looks department.

But since we’re already settling on body styling, cabin design, trim levels and available auto options, let’s discuss the aesthetic and performance enhancements that you’ll find in the 2008 GranTurismo.

Performance Components:

It comes with 19-inch alloy wheels
Also equipped with Brembo brakes
Has bi-xenon headlamps that come with handy washers
It has an adjustable suspension that can be modified electronically
Upholstery made from soft leather
Power front seats are heated and comes with “driver memory”
Has a hard-drive navigation system
Comes with a Bose surround-sound audio system

Available Aesthetic Enhancements:

comes with tree different wheel designs—two of which are 20-inchers, and one 19-inch set
customizable brake calipers that come in five different colors! If you fail to choose any, you end up with black brake calipers, which are seriously not shabby so it’s not a biggie.
Customizable interior comes in various hues, with separate trim pieces available
Vehicle exterior can be painted any of the ten types of “special paints” offered by the manufacturer upon request
Trim pieces, interior color, and exterior paint can be combined to create a truly personalized ride

GranTurismo Cabin:

The cabin is without a doubt, hands-down, amazing! Imagine driving a car with upholstery made from hand-stitched (yes, you read right, HAND-STITCHED) leather. No such thing as pleather (or faux leather if you’re grammatically fussy) inside this car. Unlike its competition, the GranTurismo looks just as good as it performs. And it performs extremely well.

Another plus for the GranTurismo, it’s not as loaded with complicated gadgets unlike other luxury coupes. In fact, it’s pretty simple. Don’t get me wrong, the car is ultra-modern, but you don’t really want a car that requires a technician to operate all its accessories, do you? I say the simpler, the better. Let the car’s performance speak for itself. I don’t need thousands of electronic gadgets in my ride. I just want it to be fast, smooth, sleek, and dependable—just like the 2008 GranTurismo.

Performance and Safety: I give it an average grade of

Speed: A-

The engine allows the GranTurismo to have a 0-60 sprint of just 5.1 seconds. Pretty quick, ei?

So it’s not as fast as the Jaguar XKR. It’s still a bit faster than the Mercedes Benz CL550, so that’s something you can brag about to your friends.

Power: A

Powered by a 4.2-L V8 engine, this car is capable of cranking out 405 horsepower. It also has a staggering 339 lb-ft. torque (pound-feet torque). With an engine designed and built by Ferrari, did you expect anything less? But like other cars from the House of the Trident, the 2008 Maserati GranTurismo comes with a specialized crankshaft and unique cylinder heads.

Suspension Performance: A+

So it’s not as powerful as other luxury performance coupes, at least numbers-wise—but the good thing about the GranTurismo is that it offers superb ride quality. No extra bounces for you and your passengers each time you drive through road irregularities. Although if you own this car, I seriously advise you against doing off-road driving, mainly because having your car repainted is going to cost you—dearly, literally.

Safety: B+

It has all the standard safety features you can expect from any luxury vehicle. The 2008 GranTurismo comes with traction control, antilock brakes, stability control, side-curtain for head protection for the front passengers, along with side airbags at the front seats.

Overall Grade: A-/A

Sources: Edmunds.com and autos.yahoo.com

Auto Pick for the Week: the 2008 Maserati GranTurismo (Part I)

2008-10-11T01:26:00.000-07:00

The first time I saw a Maserati Quattroporte, it was love at first sight. The car seemed to beckon to me—it was like a light at the far end of an extremely dark tunnel... never mind that the driver cut before me and almost pushed me to join the list of auto fatalities this year, the sight of his car was just so darn appealing. Just when I thought that the House of the Trident couldn’t possibly make a sleeker and shinier ride than the Quattroporte, they come out with the 2008 Maserati GranTurismo.

2008 Maserati GranTurismo

Description: The GranTurismo is basically a 2 door luxury sports car that can carry approximately four passengers. Definitely not for the family man, but if you’re single, this might just be the right ride for you.

Trims: The GranTurismo comes with only one trim—the coupe.

Engine: This luxury sports car comes with the regular, 405 hp (horsepower), V8 engine with a 4.2-L (liter) capacity. It’s capable of running at 19 mpg (miles per gallon) on the highway, and around 13 mpg when you’re driving through the city streets.

Standard Transmission: A 6-speed automatic. This car also comes with the overdrive feature.

MSRP (Manufacturer’s Suggested Retail Price): $110,000 up.

Okay, okay, so it’s a bit pricey. Is it worth it’s price?

According to the folks from Edmunds.com, it is so worth it.

See what we have here is a truly Italian car. I don’t know why, but Italian cars in general are always so well-made. Fiats, Ferraris, and yes, Maseratis too. These days, the biggest competition for the GranTurismo from Maserati is the Continental GT by Bentley. Another excellent ride, IMO (in my opinion if you don’t do IM speak).

What Makes the 2008 Maserati GranTurismo Worth Its Weight In Gold?

Well for starters, it’s sleek, über-stylish, and it’s definitely the epitome of class and performance. But like all the other high-end sports cars on the market, the GranTurismo has a few drawbacks—very minor if you ask me.

Possible Cons:

Single trim—and we all know how in the auto industry, variety is key. It’s also not as fast as the rest of its competition. But then again, it’s not like you’d want to drive recklessly with such a pricey ride, right? It also doesn’t come with a manual transmission, so if you prefer keeping your hand on your gearstick, then this ride might not be the right luxury vehicle for you.

Dating for Dummies: What Your Car Says About You—From a Girl’s Perspective (Part V)

2008-10-06T06:31:00.000-07:00

Ah, the final section of my multi-part post entitled “Dating for Dummies: What Your Car Says About You—From a Girl’s Perspective”.

Author’s Note: But before everything, some apologies for not updating much last week. I got this writing gig which doesn’t really pay well, but it’s pretty good—except it’s a ghost writer position… The actual article topics didn’t really bother me, but writing something that no one would ever know I actually wrote does kinda irk me. So yeah, existentialist drama abounds from this side of Earth. But the show must go on, and so should this post… so without further ado, PART V. Enjoy :D

(Still for Car Interior)

All-Out Slob: Have you spotted any cockroaches from under the seats? Tired of peeling week-old pizza from your shoes each time you ride shotgun with your man? Do you feel as if the foul odor emanating from inside the car is starting to stick to your clothes and that’s why your officemates are trying desperately to avoid you like the plague? If you answered yes to even one of these questions, you’re shacking up with a slob. Or maybe not shacking up if you happen to be the conservative sort, maybe “going steady” would be a better term. Point is, you’ve got one messy man in your hands.

If his car looks that well lived-in, aren’t you afraid of what his apartment would be like? Maybe you should ask him if he actually lives in his car, because that would totally explain why his car is as messy as it is. Maybe he’s hiding a dead body under all that garbage—nah, that would be too X-Files meets CSI, right? Or maybe he’s trying to grow an entire ecosystem inside his car through evolution.

Either way, you should let your man know that an über messy interior is unacceptable. If you want to be bitchy about it, I suggest you leave a rodent on the driver’s seat where your man can easily spot it—before climbing in, mind you. (I’ve just read Rant by Chuck Palahniuk—brilliant piece, and I’m deathly afraid of rabies… can rats give you rabies?).

The nice way is to start cleaning his car for him. Tell him that you just want to know what his original upholstery looks like. Since you’re doing the work, he should have no complaints about you cleaning the interior of his car. Just make sure you inform him before doing anything. Guys are super sensitive about their rides.

***

Car Exterior

While you may care immensely how the interior looks like, you should care even more when it comes to the state of your boyfriend’s car body—mostly because that’s what other people see. And if you’re planning a get-together with your parents, you wouldn’t want your dad having “that talk” with you after dinner, behind closed doors. Although you’re not supposed to care what other people say about you or your boy for that matter, that’s no reason for you or your man to end up like slobs.

That being said, onto the next part of this post: the state of his car’s exterior.

Sleek and Shiny: From afar, it’s absolutely spotless. From up close, you see very slight swirl marks near the fender where your man probably used a duster to remove light traces of dust from the paint. It’s nothing to fret about. If you have this type of man—Mr. Almost Perfect—then you’ve got Mr. Just Right in your hands. Again, that’s so long as he’s great to you, puts your needs first, he’s well-mannered and doesn’t slap your hand each time you try to touch the dash or the steering wheel.

Scarily Spotless: Take Mr. Almost Perfect and make him Mr. Eerily Perfect… at least from afar. Drives a nice car that’s super shiny you can see your reflection from a mile away. His car looks like a show car and he’s hell-bent at trying to keep it that way as well. He’s the guy who uses car coasters and keeps everything wrapped in plastic. His ride may be a few years old, but the floors of his ride are still lined with newspaper—not even car floor mats! He makes you take off your shoes and wipe your feet before entering. Psycho much?

Needs Some Cleaning: So washes his car once a month. Not a big deal, right? Just try suggesting to him (in a very sweet voice)t hat he should probably get his car cleaned twice a month instead of just once to avoid having hardened debris from accumulating on his ride.

Biohazard: Does your man drive a car that you’d rather be miles away from? Does it look like a swamp creature? Has rust eaten away a major chunk of the car’s façade? If yes, don’t ride. Don’t even date the driver. Or at least help your man find a safer and more aesthetically acceptable vehicle.

Dating for Dummies: What Your Car Says About You—From A Girl’s Perspective (Part IV)

2008-10-01T20:51:00.000-07:00

And here’s part IV of my extremely-long, multi-part post! J Enjoy!

So we’ve covered some of the basic vehicle types and their respective drivers, now it’s time to go for the more luxurious rides available: the Sedan and the Convertible.

Sedan Sweetie: Nothing says luxury better than a sweet Sedan. (And maybe a limo—provided your man is the one in the backseat, pouring you a glass of sparkling, Krug Clos du Mesnil 1995 or Bollinger Blanc De Noirs Vieilles Vignes Francaises 1997 champagne that runs at $750 and $400 per bottle respectively). Subtly ask him, is it his car or his dad’s car he’s driving. It shouldn’t really matter during your first date, but if he’s driving his old man’s ride that might explain why you’re not allowed to touch the steering wheel or dash.

If it’s his ride and he makes you take your shoes off every time you get into the car—that’s a deal breaker. Yes, cleanliness is next to godliness, but let’s not get too sentimental over a few specks of dust. Unless you’ve been stomping through muddy grounds, you shouldn’t have to sit in his car barefoot and holding your Manolo Blahniks on one hand.

Next, check for a ring, for all the reasons I listed on the previous post. The last thing you’d want is a man who married rich to score with hotter chicks.

Otherwise, enjoy your expensive date, and make it clear that a nice car doesn’t necessarily guarantee sex. (Unless of course, that’s what you’re after too.)

If he holds the door open for you ALL THE TIME, it usually means he’s a keeper. (Although some are just out to impress you—remember, go for constancy).

Hot Convertible: Usually red, silver, or black in color with leather seats and chrome interiors. Remember that old saying that goes: “the flashier the ride, the smaller the wang?” No? Well that’s probably because I invented it. But c’mon, you’ve got to admit it—society has pinned down the flashy convertible as a man’s way of compensating for his “smaller-than-usual-thingamajiggy”.

Well, let me tell you—NOT TRUE, SOMETIMES. The size of a man’s little friend can’t be measured by the type of car he drives.

I believe it’s more of the size of the ego that’s measured by the type of ride a man drives around. I’ve met some of the most obnoxious people driving around in itsy-bitsy convertibles. Although, there are some nice folks out there who just like the wind in their hair as they drive top down in the freeway (which by the way is NEVER a good idea when driving through the busy streets of a polluted city).

***

And now, since we’ve basically covered everything that I want to cover in vehicle types, let’s head on to how clean the car interior is.

Car Interior

Spick and Span Interior: One guy I know refuses to eat, drink, or even nap inside his car. The rules extend to anyone who enters. He lines his carpet with newspaper to prevent grime from coating the floors and he even keeps the plastic on his upholstery intact to “prevent scratches on the genuine leather upholstery” he owns. Can you say anal? But, you know, it’s his car, and he’s going to drive it the way he wants to.

Spick and Span is A-Okay, so long as we’re not talking— “Shoes Off!”, “Keep Your Hands on Your Lap!”, “No Drooling!” kinda thing.

Slightly Messy Interior: This is the average guy. He hops into his car, chews on a granola bar (healthy man) or candy bar and leaves the partially-eaten bar folded and wrapped on the dash. He remembers to throw it out the minute he steps out of the vehicle but has no qualms on you eating inside his car. He cleans his car once a week or a couple of times a month and has it waxed at least once a year. He knows the fundamentals of car care and follows it when he can.

Really, nothing to complain about. At least he won’t make you pick up every bread crumb you spill on the carpet right?

Dating for Dummies: What Your Car Says About You—From A Girl’s Perspective (Part III)

2008-09-29T19:55:00.000-07:00

Now on to the next batch of vehicles! (I got sick last week, so I wasn’t able to write as much as I wanted to. Still feeling under the weather, so you’ll have to make do with a multi-part post. J But don’t worry, I’ll get this done as soon as I can.

As a continuation to my previous post, I start with the:

SUV Dad: I know, I know. Not all guys who drive SUVs are necessarily dads or are looking for families. But there’s one thing I can say about SUV guys and that’s how most of the time these guys are extremely reliable. Although a word of warning for all the ladies out there, if your man drives an SUV and he NEVER spends the night at your place, I suggest you check his ring finger. Chances are, you won’t see a ring. But you might find a thin white strip of whiter-than-usual skin. That’s a sign that he’s been wearing a ring and that he might be married.

If he says he’s separated, just make sure he really is. But don’t settle for the “I promise, I’ll leave my wife for you”. Because most of the time, these married guys, they never really do. (And if he does leave his wife, would you really like to earn the title of “homewrecker”?) Think about it duckie.

P.S. If the SUV is decked out with huge wheels and a large assembly of lights mounted on the roof, chances are you scored yourself a wilderness-junkie. Off-road driving is just one of his many adventures. The good thing is you’ll never get bored. Although expect a lot of your later dates to be up in the mountains and you sleeping in a tent. If he’s really hardcore, you might actually have to sleep outside the tent with him… Not a problem if you love the woods yourself, but if you’re a bit conservative and your idea of a fun weekend is cuddling on the couch and watching romcoms, then this might not be the guy for you. Unless of course, you can convert him, or vice versa.

Pickup Guy or Monstrous Truck: If your guy is cruising the streets in a monstrous truck or a pickup, chances are he’s lugging around a lot of baggage, literally. He might be using his ride as part of his business. Just make it clear that you’d prefer riding with him if his truck was a bit cleaner. Years of mud on the sides of his truck is always unacceptable… you’ll find out why later.

Mr. Van: Sweetheart, are you sure you’re not dating a 16-year old? I’ve met a lot of guys who own vans, most of them are friends of my teenage cousin. Although there are some hippy-ish guys out there who prefer the comforts of the van. Determine his “date-ability based on the contents of the van. He might be a florist or he owns a catering business and he’s using the van for deliveries—not really a bad thing. A hardworking guy is always good—as long as you’re in his top three priorities, by the way.

If you spot weed or you smell weed on the upholstery, and yes, I know you know the distinctive aroma of a freshly used joint, unless you’re a user yourself, don’t date him. It might be a lifelong thing. He might say he just uses a bit to help him relax… and you might be surprised months later when you find out that he chronically has to use weed as a way to relax. Not a good sign.

If you spot white stuff in small packets, run for the hills. He might be dealing drugs, and if you get caught or if he makes a deal with you in the car, if you get caught, you can’t defend yourself with the “I’m an innocent bystander” remark.

If you see band equipment, then obviously he’s either a roadie or a part of the band. Based from experience, band guys are great. But the loyal and the ones who’d treat you well, well, they’re few and far between. Try to make it work, but you have to remember that sometimes, you’re not going to be top priority. And watch out for those scantily-clad groupies waiting for your man backstage after every gig.

Lastly, he might be a coach, a dad, or a devoted uncle. The soiled carpet consisting of mud, food stains, and grass should give you a clue. That’s not really a bad thing. Although if you’re going for the dad, make sure he’s divorced or separated. Trust me, you wouldn’t want to be stuck in the crossfire between the guy and his wife.

Dating for Dummies: What Your Car Says About You—From a Girl’s Perspective (Part II)

2008-09-26T18:32:00.001-07:00

Now that we’ve tackled guys that Lease or Own their rides, it’s time to go for the car types. Or more accurately, vehicle types. So, without further ado, the rest of the post on “What Your Car Says About You”…

Vehicle Types: Yes, I know that there are a lot of vehicle types out there, so I’m taking the “more general, the better” route.

Green Guy (Hybrid/Electric Cars): The green guy is usually extremely practical and of course, environmentally aware. He probably forgoes the use of plastic bags in favor of reusable, organic cotton or heavyweight hemp grocery bags. He’s the type of guy who’s very well-informed about the state of the environment and could go on and on during dinner about his interests. Not to say that he’s bad company, he’s just in the green team, that’s all.

He’ll encourage you to quit smoking and list down all the bad effects of smoking on your health (unless he smokes himself). He’s usually either a vegetarian or a vegan—and would try not to wince the moment you order a slab of medium raw steak for your first date. If he is vegan, trust me, you eating meat will be a big problem. Most vegans can’t stand the smell of meat. (Personally, I can’t really smell meat most of the time—but I can spot a good quarter-pounder burger from a mile away).

Subcompact/Mini Driver: Does size really matter? Nope. What matters is how you use it. The subcompact driver isn’t too full of himself. He drives around in a small ride, with macho guys gunning their big trucks as they pass by—and he usually doesn’t mind. He’s pretty comfortable in his tiny car, weaving in and out of traffic. Watch out for a truck’s blind spots though! The subcompact driver is generally the “play-it-safe” kinda guy, especially during your first date. If it were a choice between going to an Italian or Mediterranean resto, he’ll probably pick Italian. Not a bad choice though!

Four-Door Square: A standard four-door car is never a bad thing. Because it’s usually the generic choice, this guy can be pretty hard to read based solely on his car model. So I suggest you read into how clean he keeps his car. The cleaner the better, so long as he’s not Mr. Spotless. If he makes you take your shoes off before getting into his car, that’s usually a bad sign. (Unless you’re a bit obsessive-compulsive yourself). If he swats your hand each time you try to touch his dashboard, hail a cab…ASAP.

He probably won’t swat your hand away on your first date, but he’ll definitely give you a grimace and go “I just had that cleaned!” and maybe shake his head a bit and give out “tsk-tsking” sounds. Not fun.

A complete slob, however, tops the list of people you shouldn’t date. If you can’t find your car seat, then chances are he’s breeding a rodent community under the seats. You wouldn’t want that, would you? Can you imagine stepping on Stuart Little under all that rubble? Ewwww.

Mr. Exotic: He comes to pick you up, what is he driving? A Lotus Elise? Aurora Car? Bentley Azure? THE Bugatti Veyron 16.4? Whether it’s an exotic super car, sports car, luxury ride, or even a limo—point is, this guy’s got style. Maybe too much style for that matter. Most of the time, we choose cars that suit our preferences—unless you’re on a budget. But if you’re dating a guy who owns an exotic car, then chances are, budget isn’t a problem—at all! Something you might need to contend with? His vanity, vanity, vanity.

There are some rare guys out there however who would let you touch his fender, hood and even his gear stick—he’ll even let you drive his car—but those guys, they’re pretty rare.

Dating for Dummies: What Your Car Says About You--From a Girl’s Perspective (Part 1)

2008-09-26T04:48:00.000-07:00

You’ll probably disagree with this statement, but whether you like it or not, your car definitely says a lot about you. Whether you’re driving a sports wagon, a convertible, or a large pickup for that matter, it says something about your personality. And let’s face it, it’s not just the car, it’s also how you keep it. Do you prefer having grease stains on the upholstery, or does eating inside your vehicle completely turn you off? What does it mean if you use air fresheners for your car?

Note: All these assumptions and judgments are based from personal experience. So yes, this piece is biased.

Leased vs. Owned:

Shiny, Leased Cars:

When I meet men driving leased cars, three things come to mind. It’s either he’s:

Holding out for a sweet deal on the car that he really wants.
Flashing his (faux) riches like a maxed-out platinum card.

Guy # 1 is for the sweet guys out there who work hard to eventually buy the car of their dreams. These guys usually settle for shiny, but not necessarily flashy cars. They don’t want much attention drawn to themselves—and they don’t feel ashamed to say that the car is leased. Having a nice car to impress a boss or a date is sweet in a pretty warped way, but if the guy has a follow-through plan, then he’s no rotten apple at all. ;)

Guy # 2 is for the guy who goes around town in different convertibles and sedans every few months. He walks into a room like he owns the place and reeks of powerful (albeit not too expensive) cologne. He cards all your dinners, sends you flowers, but eventually runs out of cash and you’ve got to “pitch in” for his rent. That guy’s bad news.

Some guys actually fall in the gray area. They’re a bit flashy, but not as arrogant as Guy # 2. These guys are usually young, in their early 20’s and are looking for a hot date on a great night, and probably has a money-making scheme or two up a sleeve. Crafty, but not so humble.

Owns an Old and Rotting Ride:

Either he:

inherited the car from his father or great grand-father if it’s vintage; or
he’s just too practical for his own good.

Nothing wrong with slightly worn cars, but if you let your car rot to the point where the car is sprouting mushrooms or housing small, furry creatures in between the cracks on the upholstery, then that could be a relationship-stopper for anyone.

Guy # 1 probably isn’t the bad sort. He’s probably saving up for a new car (especially if you happen to be dating a high-school student or something). But if he’s out to spend on a new car, and you notice he’s got a one-track mind on this issue, then expect him to scrimp on your dates. Or you pick up the tab—which is even worse than him scrimping, trust me.

Guy # 2 is just practical… too darn practical. He thinks that if a car can take him from point A to point B, no matter how slow or how darn unattractive the car happens to be, then it’s a good car. I’ve met one or two boys with this… attitude. It’s not bad, in fact it’s admirable in a way. But unless you’re the type of girl who likes roughin’ it from time to time, then you might want to think about your compatibility with this dude.

Auto How To: How To Tighten a Loose Fan Belt

2008-09-25T01:26:00.000-07:00

What is a Fan Belt?

The fan belt is one of the most important yet super underrated parts of your vehicle. It is designed to transfer power from the crankshaft-driven pulley to your engine’s fan. It basically keeps your fan moving to prevent your engine or motor from overheating. This component can also be used to power your vehicle’s other accessories that are usually mounted near your engine, like the air injection pump, power-steering pump, and even your a/c compressor.

Each high performance fan belt is crafted from reinforced, high-tensile synthetic rubber and strength cords. It’s made to be extra durable to be able to handle the intense pressure that comes with running at incredibly high RPMs.

Because of the importance of your fan belt, you need to keep this vehicle component in excellent condition. The moment you see signs of slack on the belt, bring out your tools, because it’s time to do some tightening.

A Little Trivia: Some time ago, this rubbery cord went by a different name. It used to be called the “drive belt”. So don’t be confused if your old school mechanic informs you that you need to change your drive belt. Fan belt, drive belt—essentially the same banana.

What are the Signs that your Fan Belt is Loose?

Since the fan belt powers a lot of your car’s accessories, the most common sign is how your car gradually loses power even as you step on the accelerator completely. Sometimes, you may also find that your vehicle is starting to become rougher and tougher than normal. If your car is also a lot slower than it used to be, for example, you’re trying to go for 65 miles per hour (MPH), and you’ve got your foot completely sunk with the gas pedal and you’re still going 30 MPH, that’s a sign that your fan belt is no longer in superb condition.

Other signs of a loose fan belt includes: the dimming of all your auto lights and when your radio no longer functions well. (Add to that how the rest of your in-car electronic gadgets start to flicker and die out).

If your car is exhibiting the following symptoms, then open your hood to check your fan belt for signs of slack. Once you confirm that it is your loose fan belt that is causing your car’s problems, then it’s time for you to tighten this loose belt.

How to Tighten a Loose Fan Belt.

Engaging in a DIY (do-it-yourself) project like this one isn’t as complicated as it may seem. As long as you have the right tools, the correct set of instructions, and the patience to accomplish this project, then you can keep your ride performing like you just drove it off the car lot—regardless of its age!

Materials:

Your owner’s manual

Wrench

Heavy-duty Scissors

Screwdriver

Clean Rags

Step 1: Bring out your owner’s manual and look for any information regarding your vehicle’s current fan belt. If you can’t find your fan belt, then your owner’s manual should give you an idea on where to find it as well.

Step 2: Keep your tools where you can reach them. Tools include your heavy-duty scissors, wrench, screwdriver and clean rags. (Hint: you’re using your clean rags to wipe away signs of dirt and grime under your vehicle’s hood.)

Step 3: Hold your fan belt firmly in its place while you remove its nut using your wrench. You can use your screwdriver to prop up the fan belt, but just make sure you don’t damage this component while you keep it in place.

As for the tiny nut, don’t lose it! Sometimes it helps to have a container nearby where you can put all the auto components you remove from your car—this way, you can’t lose ‘em.

Step 4: Remove signs of dirt, grime, and grit from the belt assembly and your actual fan belt. This should give you a better view of these components. Check the fan belt for signs of damage that includes cracks, breaks, wear, and excessive tear. If the damage is extensive, you’ll know that it’s time to replace your fan belt as soon as possible.

Step 5: Now, look for small black rings found on your belt assembly. These parts are called the shims. You need to remove each one from the belt assembly. To do this, use your heavy-duty scissors.

As you remove each shim, make sure you check just how taut the belt is, and what the average distance of each shim is from each other.

Step 6: Bring out the nut and put it on the adjusting bolt. Tighten it, and make sure the nut is securely in place.

Step 7: Go around your car and start your engine. Let the engine run for just a few minutes.

Step 8: Turn off the engine. This is a way to test just how taut the belt is after you tightened it.

Step 9: Lastly, check the fan belt’s tightness manually. Get out of your car once the engine is off. Since you were only running your car for a few minutes, the components under your vehicle’s hood shouldn’t be too hot. But if you feel the temperature rising from your vehicle, and you think it’s going to be scorching hot, I highly suggest you wait a minute or two before checking the fan belt.

If after tightening the fan belt you find that it is not performing the way it should, then consult a professional mechanic as soon as possible.

Auto How To: How to Replace a Dark Headlight

2008-09-18T20:32:00.000-07:00

Driving around with burnt-out headlight bulbs? Why risk being at the receiving end of traffic ticket or getting into an accident? The moment one of your headlights start to flicker or becomes dim, you need to replace it immediately.

Your headlights are some of the most important active safety features installed in your vehicle. They help you see better at night or during low visibility conditions. They also help other drivers see your car better when rounding a curve or cruising through a dimly lit street. Without functioning headlights, you might as well hang a sign on your car saying: “Hit me!”—well maybe that’s a bit extreme, but you get my point.

Replacing your dim headlight is actually incredibly easy, so instead of risking your life or money for that matter, why don’t you just replace it ASAP instead? That should save you from a lot of trouble, believe me.

(Did I ever tell you about that time when I got pulled over for driving without headlights—it was a dare—and my dad found out and made me polish his baseball school trophies? Right. Didn’t think so. I tried crying in front of the cop, and when he found out that I had functioning headlights, I got into even bigger trouble. Tsk tsk. I learned my lesson)

But enough preamble. On to the actual stuff.

How to Replace a Dark Headlight:

The first thing you have to do is to find out which one of your headlights is about to croak. You do this by turning on your headlights, while your vehicle is parked, mind you, and checking. Once you find the headlight that needs replacing, check out your other one. (When one gives out, the other is usually not that far behind). If your only functioning headlight is also dimmer than usual, you may want to consider replacing both of them.

Then, have a look at your owner’s manual to find out what type of replacement headlight you should get. There are two main types of headlights when it comes to headlight construction: the composite and the sealed beam. If your vehicle has sealed beam headlights, you’ll have to replace the entire headlight assembly when your bulb gives out. If you have composite headlights, then you can simply replace the bulb instead of throwing away the entire headlight assembly.

Don’t forget to check your manual for headlights that meet your vehicle’s requirements. It’s all about compatibility, sometimes…

Materials You’ll Need:
Screwdriver (you might need it)
Replacement headlight/s
A plastic cup

To Replace Just the Bulb: (For Composite Headlights)

Step #1: Open your hood. Most headlights can be accessed through the front of your engine.

Step #2: Bring out your owner’s manual and look for your headlight assembly.

Step #3: If there are any nuts, retainers or screws that you need to remove to access your headlight assembly, remove them. Place them inside your plastic cup to make them easier to find later on. Set them aside for a while.

Step #4: Do you see the black plastic ring that holds the bulb to your headlight assembly? Twist and remove that ring.

Step #5: Pull out the bulb and its housing.

Step #6: Remove your headlight’s bulb from the housing.

Step #7: Bring out your replacement bulb, and make sure you don’t touch the glass itself. (Especially if you have a halogen bulb on your hands)

Step #8: Insert your replacement bulb into the housing and slide the assembly back into your headlight.

Step #9: Replace the black ring. You usually need to just retighten the ring.

Step #10: Close your vehicle’s hood.

To Replace the Entire Headlight: (For Sealed Beam Headlights)

Step #1: Open your hood. Most headlights can be accessed through the front of your engine.

Step #2: Bring out your owner’s manual and look for your headlight assembly.

Step #3: If there are any nuts, retainers or screws that you need to remove to access your headlight assembly, remove them. Place them inside your plastic cup to make them easier to find later on. Set them aside for a while.

(same instructions as before, if you’d notice. )

Step #4: Pull out the entire headlight assembly. If there are any wires connected to the assembly, unplug them.

NOTE: Throw the headlight assembly the proper way. Dispose of it through an auto parts store or your local recycling center.

Step #5: Install your replacement headlight into the old headlight’s place.

Step #6: Reconnect the wires and replace all the retainers, nuts and screws that you removed.

Step #7: Close your car’s hood.

Top Ten Ways to Get Your Car Stolen (Part II)

2008-09-17T19:55:00.000-07:00

As the continuation to my previous post “Top Ten Ways to Get Your Car Stolen”, here are more tips on how you can speed up the stealing of your own car!

Tip #6: Park at the Dark End of Your Office or Shopping Area’s Parking Lot. Remember, the darker and the more isolated the area, the better. While security guards do usually roam around the parking lot most of the time, they also spend quite some time in their booths looking out for the cars near them. By parking your car in the farthest corner in the lot, you can make sure that you’ve invited just the right amount of trouble in.

I don’t know how they do it, but I know the crudest method is to either jimmy your car doors or to break the window completely by putting a thick cloth over the window glass and hitting it hard with a heavy object. If you’re in a particularly giving mood, remember to turn off your car alarm before you leave your car.

Tip #7: Leave Your Car Parked in a Deserted or Empty Lot Instead of Inside Your Garage. Why bother parking your car inside your own garage when you can set up a pool table or foosball table there and bring out the couch and TV for some wild nights with your friends? Who needs a car anyways? They eat up too much gas and if auto theft is covered by your insurance, you can always get some monies while getting rid of your ride for good.

But it’s true, actually leaving your car parked in a deserted and/or empty lot inside your village should get your car stolen in no time. But remember, be considerate. You wouldn’t want the thief to get caught red-handed right? So conveniently forget to once again use your car alarm and to use your anti-theft, steering wheel locking mechanism. Those gadgets are way too complicated to lock and unlock anyways, right?

Tip #8 Leave Your Spare Key Inserted Into Your Car Door Lock. After putting away your groceries, why bother going back to get your spare key? To make the thief’s job easier, feed the key to him/her. By leaving your key lying around the area or directly inserted into your car door lock, the thief can make a speedy getaway without you even detecting his/her presence.

If you’re feeling magnanimous, catch the thief’s attention by leaving your wallet, mobile phone and house keys lying on your front seat. This way, you can also go home to a ransacked home that’s missing all your expensive furniture.

Tip #9: Give Your Original Key AND Spare Key to the Valet Parking Attendant (Or Whoever Looks Like Him/Her). For this tip to work, you have to be really crafty. Spot the fake from a mile away by checking out the uniform, and make sure you hand your keys (both of them) to the guy/girl wearing suspiciously “regular” clothes. The fake valet parking attendant usually has no nametags on his chest… so that should give you a clue.

To make things even more convenient for the thief, make sure you leave all your car’s documents (ownership papers, insurance, etc.) inside the glove compartment.

Tip #10: Lastly, Turn Off Your Car Alarm and Follow All of the Tips Listed Above. By being reckless and ignorant when it comes to car protection against auto theft, you can make sure your vehicle ends up in parts in some random garage or another country in less than 24 hours! That’s quite a feat, doncha think? ;)

(But if you don’t want your car stolen after all—if you’ve had a change of heart, or something close to that—then keep your vehicle protected by making sure you don’t commit any of the tips listed in this two-part post).

Top Ten Ways to Get Your Car Stolen (Part I)

2008-09-16T20:24:00.000-07:00

These days, there are so many top ten lists dishing out hot tips on how to steal a car. While these tips are mainly there to help you keep your car protected from auto theft, I thought it was better to give you tips on how you can get your beloved vehicle snatched from right under your nose. (Not literally, of course).

Use these tips to either get your car stolen easily or to avoid getting your ride klepto-ed. Whichever way you choose to use this post, let’s hope you get the results you’re after, yeah?

So without further ado, my “Top Ten Way to Get Your Car Stolen”!

Tip #1: Purchase a high-risk vehicle like the Cadillac Escalade. According to an MSNBC study, the Cadillac Escalade is a favorite target for auto theft. Or at least this ride has the highest rate of insurance theft claims. Same banana, really.

Frankly, I don’t really see the logic. I mean it’s a huge vehicle so people would notice someone jimmying your vehicle doors from afar, right? Well actually, I guess I do see the logic, somewhat. Since the Cadillac Escalade happens to be the preferred vehicle for rappers and other celebrity A-listers, come to think of it, it does make sense, right?

You must have big money if you’re going to buy a massive, not to mention, extremely pricey ride like the Escalade. (autos.yahoo.com shows that the 2009 Cadillac Escalade Hybrid can fetch up to $73,285—enough moolah to feed an entire town for weeks!)

Other rides that are easy-targets for crooks? Dodge Ram 1500 Quad Cab Pickup, Mitsubishi Lancer, 1995 Honda Civic, 1989 Toyota Camry, 1991 Honda Accord, 1997 Ford F-150 Pickup and the 2005 Dodge Ram pickup to name a few.

So, pick your poison today!

By the way, if you still want your car stolen, even if it’s not a part of the vehicles listed above, then have no fear—if you follow the next few tips, you’re sure to be filing a car insurance theft claim in no time.

Tip #2: Pack Up Your Bags and Move to Sin City or Sunny California.

Studies show that in the United States, the highest auto theft claims come from Modesto, California and Las Vegas, Nevada. I don’t know if it has something to do with the fact that both areas are relatively near the border or if it has something to do with security in those areas but either way, these places are great locations where you can lose your car easily.

Come to think of it, some studies claim that car theft is more common in the West compared to the East, so I dunno. All I know is that if you ever decide to visit these cities, either you park your car in a dark and dubious location to lose it, or you keep a careful eye on your ride to keep it. Choose your own adventure.

Tip #3: Leave Your Ride Idling While You Shop. For thieves, nothing is more inviting than an empty ride with the key still stuck in the ignition. All they have to do is jump into your car and drive away like nothing happened. Meanwhile you’re happily spending money completely unaware of the thievery happening right outside the establishment you’re in.

Do this ALL THE TIME when you run errands, and I guarantee that you’ll get your car stolen in no time!

Tip #4: Keep Those Doors Unlocked and Your Car Alarm Off… and you’ll surely invite trouble in. If you’re parking in a crowded parking lot, expect some persistent thieves to keep trying different doors until they find your car. When they flip that door handle and your door actually opens, it’s a jackpot for them!

Tip #5: Conveniently Leave your Car’s Spare Key, Your Wallet, Laptop and Other Valuables on the Front or Back Seats of Your Vehicle. If you have cash, bait a thief with a lucky $100 on the seat. The time it takes you to run your errand, at least 30 minutes, should be enough time for the carjacker to jimmy those doors open and drive off with your spare key. Nifty idea, right?

The Quest for the Perfect Car Color (Part II)

2008-09-10T19:48:00.000-07:00

Aesthetics aside, other reasons why picking the right car color is important has to do with vehicle safety and cleaning issues. And as the second part to my post on the quest for the perfect car color, I’m including some things you need to consider when picking out the color of your next ride.

Darker Colors vs. Lighter Alternatives
While black is universally acknowledged as an easy favorite for most car owners, my mom used to tell me that a black car is accident prone. We never had a black car and I don’t think anyone in my immediate family would ever do.

True, while saying black cars are more prone to accidents may seem like complete nonsense, in a weird way, it actually makes sense. Think about it. While black cars or dark-colored cars may be incredibly visible during the day, at night or during poor visibility conditions (harsh weather and the like), these hot rides tend to blend in with the background. And if you happen to be one of the drivers who love riding-sans-headlights, then I could understand how your vehicle can be accident prone after all.

One thing you have to consider when picking out your car’s color is vehicle visibility. Vehicle visibility is not the same thing as driving visibility. While you may have absolutely zero problems spotting other cars at night, other drivers may have a problem seeing your car, particularly if it’s parked in an ultra-dark neighborhood without lamps. (In the first place, any car owner would tell you that it’s not a very wise move if you’re parking your car in an exceptionally dark place.)

Plus, black dirties easily. After cleaning your black ride (especially when you’re in a hurry), expect to see water and soap streaks ruining your car’s appearance.

But if your heart is set on going for dark colors, then one way you can avoid streaks and visible dirt is to invest in a high quality car duster.

If, however, you’re still open to some persuasion and you want a classic and elegant color that’s more visible than black but equally as impressive, I suggest you go for white.

Classic Colors vs. Trendy Shades
It takes a brave and super confident driver to cruise around in a multi-colored ride. If you’re on the artistic side, or if you’re out to show people your unique personality, then a trendy color might do the trick for you. Aside from making your car stand out, a trendy color like hot pink or even a cool finish like matte black does give your car a hipper look.

But if you prefer something more conventional, then I suggest going for classic white, black, silver, gray, blue, red or even green (not apple green though, that’s too bright to be considered classic). Another advantage of going for a classic color is that it never goes out of style.

Easy-to-Dirty Colors vs. Masks-Dirt Colors
Black, as we’ve discussed earlier is easy to dirty. And white easily shows dirt too. So what are the car colors that could help hide dirt? Beige and sand. Not my favorite car colors in the world and they’re rarely every striking, but if you don’t like washing your car every Sunday, they’re excellent color choices—trust me.

The Pros and Cons of Heart-Stopping, Sexy Red
Yes, it’s one of my favorite car colors, but yes this color isn’t foolproof. It’s attention-grabbing, true. But it doesn’t always attract the right attention.

Imagine riding down the freeway and speeding just a teensy bit. A green or blue car zooms past, speeding even more than you. But you’re the one who gets pulled over by the cop. Now wasn’t that just unfair?

Well, it’s part of the whole package. You got the cop’s interest because of your eye-catching ride and the other driver with the safer color choice didn’t.

Plus, a little secret (well, not really a secret. Lolz): some sites say that there are a number of insurance companies that may increase your premium if you’re driving a red ride.

So that’s something you need to consider.

Metallic vs. Non-Metallic
According to TopSpeed, metallic colors are supposed to last longer. Meaning, it’s a pretty good investment in the long run, particularly if you want to trade in your ride in the future.

Specialty Paint vs. Standard
The rare car colors you see out on the road are usually “customized”, which means they may be more expensive than a popular color choice like white or gray. Be sure to ask for the price of the white version of the car that you want versus the price of pink or other rare colored ride you’re after. If the offer remains the same, then you’ve got a sweet deal. If the price is slightly higher, then start thinking if purchasing the custom-colored car is worth it.

The Quest for the Perfect Car Color (Part I)

2008-09-09T19:57:00.000-07:00

I know a lot of people who firmly believe that when it comes to cars, “geniuses pick green”. And while only half of those people actually own green cars, it made me think about the importance of picking out your car’s color.

It’s an ongoing joke between my guy friends that when women visit the car lot, the first question they ask is “does this come in pink?”, and while this may be true in some cases, it’s not because women don’t care about the actual performance of the car, it’s just because color matters.

According to the Colors Matter website, your choice of car color creates an impact in your life. It also creates an impression on the different people you meet. You may be seated inside your vehicle most of the time, but trust me when I tell you that one of the first things people notice about your ride is the color of the vehicle.

For example: You may be driving a classic beauty like the 1951 Chrysler New Yorker that’s in mint condition, but if the color’s a bit off-putting, then that can distract someone from his/her quiet appreciation of your otherwise genuinely hot ride. True, color boils down to preference, but the key to picking out the perfect car color is to go for the color that represents your personality best.

Side Note: Personally, my favorite car colors include: silver, red, apple green, black and yellow. And the most unattractive car colors for me: brown, puke green/mustard yellow and orange. But that’s personal preference, and if you think your brown car is rockin’ or if it’s a high-quality and high-performance ride with an ATTITUDE, then go for it.

So What Does Your Color Choice Say About You?

Going for Cool Colors: The term “cool” when used in this phrase has more to do with its calming effect on the viewer than its trendy appeal. Cool colors include neutrals like gray, white, silver, green and blue. If you tend to go for cool colors, then there’s a high chance that you’re the type of person who’s laidback, cool, calm and collected. Not a bad description, ei?

Going for Warm Colors: Warm colors like red, yellow and orange indicate an exciting and upbeat persona. These colors are usually more noticeable and flashier, more attention-grabbing than anything else. So if you’re the type of person who’s on the aggressive side or likes being the center of attention, then pick between the various shades of red, yellow and orange for your car.

Other warm but more neutral colors include black and brown.

Mixture Between Warm and Cool Colors: Colors like pink, purple, lavender, the bright green and turquoise tend to be a bit more trendy. Not as flashy as warm colors but not as calming as cool shades either, these hues give off a younger feel for your car.

Beige is another happy in-betweener, but it’s more classic and neutral compared to the rest of the more fashionable colors I mentioned above.

Classic/Neutral Colors: Classic car colors include black, white, gray, ivory, brown, beige and even silver. These colors are more elegant compared to other warm, cool and mixed colors. Going for classic colors produce a more mature and conventional impression on bystanders.

Popular Color Choices: (not listed in order)

Black: Mysterious, classy and somber. Makes you think of the classic James Bond.

Silver: The younger and more modern “black”. Still mysterious, still classy but more chic than somber.

White and Gray: Probably the most classic color choice available. Elegant (as long as you keep it clean) and rather conventional.

Red: Red is probably the flashiest color in the list. Because it’s been a popular color choice for such a long time, it may as well be a classic, but it’s dynamic appeal makes it the perfect color choice for executives, singles, DINKS (double income no kids) and basically the young to the middle-aged. When you drive a flashy red ride, you may come off as the aggressive and the go-getter type. Which you probably are anyways. :P

Blue and Green: Though not really classics, these colors remain as two of the safest and more popular color choices on the market.

Top Ten Signs You’ve Got Road Rage… Bad (Part II)

2008-09-08T19:34:00.000-07:00

As a continuation to my previous post on road rage, here are the final FIVE signs that you’ve got a bad case of road rage and will either need an immediate attitude adjustment or will have to stop driving altogether. (Pick the one which appeals to you most.)

#5: If the car from the next lane zooms past yours, you feel the NEED to overtake the vehicle at all costs… and you do. It’s a lot like sign #8, really. While being competitive is considered a mark of a strong character, there are some occasions where you have to curb your competitive streak… One of them is when you’re driving in a public road with hundreds of “clueless” drivers surrounding you. Unless you’re racing in a circuit, you shouldn’t be trying to “outrace and outdrive” other drivers.

True, there are times when you will feel as if the next driver is taunting you by speeding alongside you and zooming forward leaving you in a cloud of dust, but that’s not a go-signal for you to try to “keep up” and move past the other driver ASAP. Consider the rest of the “slower” drivers in front of you. These people just want to get to their destinations as soon as possible without breaking their necks or getting into nasty and possibly fatal collisions.

#4: You’re packing heat…and you have the urge to show it to all the drivers around you. Brandishing a weapon in public (or threatening other people with it in private) is, I’m pretty sure, against the law. If that’s not enough reason to dissuade you from showing off your pistol, then I suppose I’ll just tell you an itsy-bitsy secret… showing off your gun is so NOT cool. In fact, if anything, it’s pretty sad.

It’s the equivalent of beating up a little kid for his lunch money. If you’re old enough to drive, you’re old enough to know better than to break the law by “bullying” other drivers with a gun. Besides, even if you just want to scare off the other driver, you won’t know if the other driver has a weapon as well. What if you become a victim of road rage (his/hers not yours)? If you get shot or wounded by another driver after you show him/her that you’re packing heat, the other driver’s attorney could always slap you with the “self-defense” plea. And believe me, that’s gonna hurt.

#3: You curse at other drivers, even when you’re not the one driving. As if being a backseat driver isn’t enough of a punishment, having a backseat driver who yells at the top of his/her lungs at surrounding drivers is twice as embarrassing and three times more annoying.

You fit this bill if you are on the passenger seat or backseat but you’re the one rolling down the window and yelling at the other “lousy/stupid/SOB” drivers.

If that’s you, two words bub: Anger Management. Learn it, live it, love it.   look! A smiley! See, I’m not trying to be snarky or anything, I’m just saying, being an angry backseat driver makes you more prone to road rage… that’s all.

#2: You think pedestrians have no right to be ANYWHERE…in fact, if you spotted a pedestrian crossing the road (even if he/she is on the right lane), you would want to run that idiot over… (and you have… and it’s a secret). If that’s you, I’ll have to admit, I’m a bit creeped out. First and foremost, running over pedestrians is definitely against the law. I’m not a lawyer, and I know that. And it’s not the civilian’s fault that he/she doesn’t have a car. Or maybe he/she does, but with the increase in fuel prices, the driver had to leave his/her car at home. That’s why we got trains, buses and tons of other alternative modes of transportation.

While jaywalking is also against the law, it doesn’t give you the right to play hero vigilante and to rid the world from such “cretins” by running them over. That’s attempted murder or murder if you’re successful.

#1: Losing any type of racing game makes you want to beat up your friend… and you do… bad. First and foremost, if you beat up your friend over a stupid racing game, I don’t think you guys would still be friends for long. Second, if you can’t handle simulated driving stress that means you can’t handle real-world driving, period. Unless of course you see a shrink to find out the root of all your aggression and you seek therapy to help you better control your anger.

Point is: if you exhibit any of the signs shown in this post, it means you need help. Prevent accidents by controlling your emotions well and by actively finding a way to keep your cool when you’re driving.

Autopartswarehouse.com Mini offers free driving lessons

2008-09-05T21:06:00.000-07:00

My wife is a great driver, (of course you are, honey!) but that doesn't mean that I can't suggest improvements now and then. However, the folks at MINI know I don't like sleeping on the couch, and they're willing to take the heat on this one.

On their Web site they're offering a handy "Drive Like A Pro" section full of useful tips to improve your driving. Anyone who has ever driven autocross will recognize many of them like sitting up straight, keeping things smooth, proper cornering technique and the best way to shift (again, smooth). There's even a basic heel-and-toe primer.

And, thanks to the MINI's lessons, my wife now admits her husband is right that her hands should be at 9 and 3 on the wheel, not 10 and 2.

She says I can get off the couch as soon as I admit her driving would improve even more if I bought her a new Clubman. I wonder how much change is under this cushion.

[Source: MINI]

Autopartswarehouse.com Driving Tips. Visionary Tactics: Part V

2008-09-05T18:35:00.001-07:00

Look for clues. "You can observe a lot just by watching," baseball Hall of Famer Yogi Berra was quoted as saying. Every driver looks, but few comprehend what they're seeing. For instance, those who like to drive quickly on curvy, tree-lined back roads soon learn to check the tops of trees for a clue about the severity of the next turn. Oncoming drivers with their headlights on are saying they're having trouble seeing you. Brake lights in unexpected places can mean debris on the road, a dog trying to cross traffic or a topless photo shoot in progress. (We've run across all three.)

Focus on the important stuff. The car 3 seconds ahead of you is not important stuff. Peripheral vision will take care of him. What's important is what's happening 4 to 10 seconds ahead. City drivers on vacation are prone to tailgating the only car within 20 miles, largely because they're used to focusing on the car 2 seconds ahead. Another example: At night on two-lane roads, your attention may be drawn to oncoming headlights. Instead of falling into that trap, focus on the white-painted fog line on the right shoulder.

Finally. Back when hood ornaments (and disco) were popular, we thought drivers looked too close to their cars because they were using the ornaments as gunsights. We know better now. Those drivers just had no idea how to properly use their eyes.

Source: Autopartswarehouse.com, Car Guides

Autopartswarehouse.com Driving Tips. Visionary Tactics: Part lV

2008-09-04T03:33:00.000-07:00

Keep 'em moving. Back in the glory days of dogfighting, pilots in combat were told to "keep their heads on a swivel" to avoid getting caught unaware by the enemy. Traffic is often like combat, no? Keep your eyes moving (and use your mirrors to limit moving your whole head). Scan to the horizon and back to 4 seconds ahead of your car. Repeat. Scan down cross streets for red-light runners. Scan on-ramps for oncoming cars…and cops scanning you.

Avoid target fixation. Military aviators use the term "target fixation" to describe the situation when pilots become so focused on their goal that they lose sight of their surroundings. In extreme cases the pilot drives this plane into the ground. A similar situation often occurs for highway drivers in heavy traffic or novice racers on course. Highway drivers will focus on the car just ahead. Racers focus on the apex or the car just ahead.

Look around, under or through. How do you see ahead when you're in heavy traffic, riding behind an 18-wheeler or on a tree-lined road? Look around, under or through the obstacles and vehicles ahead of you. Race drivers in tight traffic learn to look through the windshield of the cars ahead: Do the same on the highway. If you're following a behemoth, try moving to the left to see around. Often, you can look under an 18-wheeler. (Never lollygag alongside an 18-wheeler: Not only are you limiting your own vision, you may be virtually invisible to the big rig driver.)Stay tuned..

Source: Autopartswarehouse.com, Car Guides

Autopartswarehouse.com Driving Tips. Visionary Tactics: Part lll

2008-09-03T03:29:00.000-07:00

Drifting 101. Looking where you want to go is a key part of learning how to catch an oversteer slide. When the tail steps out, turn your head to continue looking down the road. Turn your head to the right if the car tries to spin in a left-hand corner and turn your head to the left if the tail steps out in a right-hand corner. Do this and you'll naturally put in some countersteering…perhaps not enough, but it'll be a start toward learning an important skill. The same thing is true with understeer or push: Look where you want to go. Looking at the on-rushing concrete barrier will encourage you to do the wrong thing: Turn the wheel more or step on the brake.

Position with peripheral. Use only your peripheral vision to position your car within your lane. You can't look far enough ahead if you waste your very limited central vision checking lane lines (or, for racers, apex marks). Practice by keeping your eyes above the marker line on the inside of your windshield. This tip is one of the most important. Practice it.

Work reduction. Work your eyes smarter, not harder. Properly adjust your mirrors so that you don't have to look over your shoulder to check blind spots. Here's how: Imagine making a low-tech panoramic photo with your three mirrors. The image in the inside edges of the exterior mirrors should overlap the image on the outboard edges of the interior mirror. You don't need to see the side of your car: It follows obediently along.Stay tuned..

Source: Autopartswarehouse.com, Car Guides

Top Ten Signs You’ve Got Road Rage… Bad (Part I)

2008-09-02T20:47:00.000-07:00

When I wrote my recent post called “How to Deal with Road Rage”, I was trying to address readers who were victims of road rage… or people with road rage via osmosis—meaning you were really provoked and was just reacting.

This time around, I’m going to address the people with road rage—meaning, you’re the one initiating your “angry encounters”. If you find yourself agreeing to any or most of the items listed below, then there’s a high chance that you have a very bad case of road rage. (If, however, you find yourself agreeing to all ten signs, then you need help :p )

So, without further ado, my top ten signs that you’ve got road rage… bad.

#10: In any scenario, it’s NEVER your fault. Sometimes it’s NOT your fault. I’ll give you that. But if you frequently find yourself in road rage scenarios where you’re the aggressive party asking the other driver to get out of his/her car and engage in a fistfight, then you have a problem. If you believe that you’re NEVER the party at fault (ever), then you’re in denial.

While you may feel the urge to sometimes roll down your window and start shouting at the other driver, it never pays to actually follow through.

#9: You’ve turned psycho-stalker. What?! You followed the other driver home and ran over his/her cat? If you’re thinking: “…well that stupid SOB (son-of-a-b**ch) or wh*re deserved it!”, then you don’t just have road rage, you have issues. Deep-seated ones. And you need to seek professional help this time buddy… as soon as possible.

But seriously, if you’ve ever followed the “other driver” home, even if it means you just sat outside the hapless person’s house for hours plotting revenge but you “didn’t really do anything,” I’m sorry to say that if that doesn’t count as road rage, it counts as “creepy-psycho-stalker-who-should-go-to-jail”.

#8: You think anyone who tries to overtake you or move for your lane is disrespecting you. In short, if driving is something extremely “personal” to you, and you feel as if you’re being challenged by the other driver each time he/she overtakes your ride, then you’ve got road rage.

Remember: most of the time, unless you’ve scorned the other person in the past (or you slept with that person’s significant other or mother/father), the other driver doesn’t give a d-a-m-n for you. Meaning, if the other driver overtakes your vehicle or makes a move to enter “your” lane, then it’s probably because he/she is in a hurry or is about to make a turn. It’s nothing personal bub, it’s just driving.

#7: You want a bumper sticker that reads “Devil on Wheels” or “Beware: Has Road Rage”, “Road Bully” or something equally cheesy and you want to prove it to everyone you encounter… If that’s you, then that’s just sad… I really don’t understand why some people seem to think that it’s “macho” or “cool” to have road rage. It’s rather juvenile, isn’t it?

#6: You believe that: Any bad driver must be a woman driver or … Being a female driver, I know all about the prejudices against our kind. While there are some bad female drivers out there, they don’t necessarily outnumber the reckless male drivers in the streets. I mean, come on. Being a bad driver doesn’t all boil down to gender, race or even age—it’s all a matter of concentration, reflex and skill. Anyone can be a bad driver… especially if you’re driving under the influence of alcohol or something else…

So, that being said, I’m concluding part I of this post. Check for the continuation tomorrow. :D Cheerio!

Autopartswarehouse.com Driving Tips. Visionary Tactics: Part ll

2008-09-02T02:01:00.000-07:00

Look ahead. If you take away only one thing from this article, here it is: Look far ahead. Regularly scan out to the limit of your vision. Indy and Champ Car drivers have little option save to look far ahead. The top of the cowl is just a hair below the pupil of their eyes. Want to know what it's like to drive an Indy car? Remove the seat from your personal vehicle and drive it while sitting on the floor. My 4-foot, 10-inch great aunt had a better view of the road and she looked under the steering wheel. For Indy drivers, there's no problem: At 230 mph, 100 yards is 0.89 a second away so it doesn't matter what's right in front of the car. Drivers of 18-wheelers are told to look at 12 to 15 seconds ahead. Trust me, when herding 80,000 pounds down the highway at 75 mph, 15 seconds doesn't offer a lot of cushion. Determine how far you're looking ahead by marking your farthest point of vision and counting until you reach it. You might be surprised.

Make sure. Here's another way you can make sure you're looking far enough ahead: Use an erasable marker to make a thin line across your windshield at eye level. When traveling on flat land, you should rarely focus below the line. Train your peripheral vision to check items below the line.

Look where you want to go. Don't look at what you want to avoid. Many drivers do exactly the opposite: They focus on the problem. When facing an unexpected obstacle — say, a pothole — they look at it and drive right into it. Since it's natural to steer where you're looking, focus on the desirable and ignore the hazard. Practice looking at where you want to go — and not at what you want to avoid — when changing lanes on a freeway marked with Bott's dots. To change lanes without touching the marker, look at the space between markers. Next try to change lanes while driving over the dots with all four tires: Look at the markers, not the gap between them.Stay tuned..

Source: Autopartswarehouse.com, Car Guides

Autopartswarehouse.com Driving Tips. Visionary Tactics: Part l

2008-08-28T03:02:00.000-07:00

Driving down a free-flowing rural interstate highway, you suddenly come upon a clot of slow-moving cars blocking both lanes. While other traffic had been running the usual 7 to 15 mph over the limit, this pack is lollygagging along at the posted speed. Is this a parade? A funeral procession? A meeting of the Anti-Destination League? You wiggle through the congestion and to the front of the pack. As you stand on the gas to leave this pack of bozos, you make a shocking discovery: The lead car says "Highway Patrol" on its doors.

Do you know your problem? (Other than lacking simple deduction skills, we mean: When drivers are obeying the speed limit, assume a cop's nearby.) You don't use your eyes properly. Like most drivers, you focus but a few feet ahead of your car. There are other ways you don't use your eyes properly. It's impossible to drive quickly, smoothly and safely if you don't.

Eyes are the primary information source for every driver. Relatively few fully utilize either their eyes or the information transmitted down the optic nerve. Race drivers quickly learn to properly use their eyes. Either that or they take up golf. Drivers of 18-wheelers are motivated to learn to use their eyes because it takes a very long time to stop 40 tons. In this article, we'll give you some tips we learned (often the hard way) hustling racecars around the track and on the highway behind the wheel of both passenger vehicles and big rigs.Stay tuned..

Source: Autopartswarehouse.com, Car Guides

Lifting My GMC K2500.Part V

2008-08-28T02:58:00.000-07:00

When the suspension tops-out, the upper control arm hits the solid stop (circled above). There's only about 1.75" of droop available when the truck is sitting at normal ride height (as measure at the center of the hub), which isn't much at all. Cranking up the bars cuts into that precious little downtravel, and contributes to a harsher ride and poor handling. Additionally, the upper ball joint takes a hell of a beating whenever the suspension tops out, and it won't be long before it separates.

If a torsion bar crank is used to lift the front end, a set of ball joint spacers could be used to gain some additional downtravel. Longer shocks will also be required. That addresses the top-out issue (at least as long as the bars aren't cranked any further than the spacer height), but now there's a legitimate concern about the life of the CV joints. Additionally, the front suspension geometry will be altered, with the roll center being raised and the camber gain altered in ways likely to contribute to additional tire wear. Bottom line - simply cranking the bars isn't a great way to lift an IFS Chevy.

Source: Autopartswarehouse.com, Car Guides

Tips on Safe Driving (Part II)

2008-08-27T21:04:00.000-07:00

Just the continuation of my previous post on this topic… :D

Tip #11: Don’t Tailgate. As much as possible, leave a 4-second space between you and the vehicle in front of you. This stops you from getting into a collision when the auto in front of you slams on the brakes without warning. When driving at night or through harsh weather conditions, then double the space between you and the other driver.

Tip #12: Don’t use your mobile phone while you’re driving. Talking or even just sending an SMS message while driving can be incredibly distracting. While you may be proud of your multi-tasking capabilities, safe-driving requires your full attention. If you really need to make an important call while you’re traveling, then pull over at a safe area and place your call. After the call, then you can start driving once more.

Tip #13: If a cop is after you, don’t double your speed, pull over and STOP. By trying to run away from the police or traffic enforcer, you’re just digging your own grave a little bit deeper. When faced with a ticket for speeding or driving without headlights, accept these tickets like a man (or woman, depending on your gender).

Tip #14: Drive within the speed limits. If you have a meeting early the next morning, leave your house about a quarter of an hour earlier than usual. Speeding will only get you in big trouble with nearby traffic enforcers, and it increases your chances of ending up in a fatal accident. By traveling early, you minimize the chances of getting stuck in traffic. Logical, right?

Tip #15: In a multiple lane road, stay in your lane unless you’re planning on making a turn or U-turn.

Tip #16: Drive extra-careful when it’s raining or snowing. Roads are slippery when wet. (If you’re thinking of something else, get your mind off the gutter. Lolz) So, it’s only logical that you proceed with caution during adverse weather conditions. If the roads are either flooded or icy, then don’t risk it: stay at home and don’t drive. If you’re already on the road the moment it starts raining or snowing heavily, drive slowly. If the weather worsens, pull over somewhere safe and let the (snow or rain) storm pass.

Tip #17: When you think you’re going too fast, take your foot off the gas pedal or press lightly against the brake pedal to reduce your speed. When going downhill, your vehicle has a tendency to speed up even if you’re not pressing on the gas. The best way to avoid an accident is by shifting your foot over to the brake pedal and slightly pressing on it until you’re able to control your auto’s speed.

Lifting My GMC K2500.Part lV

2008-08-27T03:04:00.000-07:00

Torque the lugs as appropriate. If the service manual specifies a torque for dry threads, I drop the torque spec by approximately 35% to account for the effect of lubrication. I have to recommend that one exactly follows the service manual, however, and that any deviation from that is taken at one's own risk.

So, how does it look? Here's the truck before:

And after:

More importantly, how do the new tires work? Very well. BFG-ATs are not a great mud tire, but they are probably the best compromise between on- and off-road performance. Dry and wet grip on the pavement are exceptional, and even with the extra width, snow traction is far improved over the Radial Rover's performance back when they still had tread. The ride is, well, a bit different. There's a sensation of additional unsprung mass (the new wheels and tires are substantially heavier), but the larger diameter and additional sidewall serve to deaden the effect of Michigan's numerous potholes. The truck doesn't feel any more top-heavy or tipsy than it did before, and the brakes don't seem to have much of a problem handling the larger tire diameter (we'll see what happens once I get a few thousand pounds in the bed).

There's a little bit of rubbing on the rear of the front fender opening, about half-way between straight-ahead and full-lock. I haven't quite decided how to address that yet, but some cutout fender flares seem like the way to go. I need to ditch the H2 center caps, too; the original caps will fit the H2 wheels with a bit of modification, but I haven't yet gotten around to spending the 10-15 minutes on that task.

Inevitably, someone will ask why I didn't crank up the torsion bars. Take a look at this picture of the suspension in full droop:Stay tuned..

Source: Autopartswarehouse.com, Car Guides

Tips on Safe Driving (Part I)

2008-08-26T19:32:00.000-07:00

No matter how good a driver you are or how skilled, keep in mind that there are days when you will make mistakes. I’m not trying to scare you or anything, but it never hurts to exercise a bit of caution each time you pull off the driveway and engage in long travels. While there are countless ways to avoid getting into an accident, there are even more ways by which you can avoid causing an accident. So what’s the difference between the two? Read on to find out.

Scenario 1: Getting into an accident: You’re driving and you encounter a blind curve. Instead of stopping and signaling, you accelerate and the car that failed to see you T-bones you right in the middle of your vehicle. If you didn’t signal or give the driver enough time to slow down and give way, then it’s your fault. You just got into an accident which you caused.

Scenario 2: Causing an Accident: You’re in the middle of a busy highway and instead of depressing on the gas pedal, you accidentally hit the brakes instead. As a reaction, the driver behind you stops immediately to avoid colliding with your vehicle. (This is usually accompanied by a loud and long honking of horns). Unfortunately, the driver that stopped to avoid your vehicle gets hit by the next driver who failed to step on the brakes and a chain reaction ensues. With a five-car build up behind you, you can’t say that it wasn’t your doing, even if your vehicle remains dent-free and spotless. Technically, it was your error that caused the buildup.

Therein lies the difference between getting into an accident which you caused and actually causing an accident. So what can you do to avoid getting into and causing accidents? You can practice safe and defensive driving.

To avoid the scenarios listed above (and their other variations), here are some tips designed to make you a better and safer driver.

Tip #1: Conduct safety checks and make the necessary adjustments on your mirrors and lights. Make sure all your auto lights work. After getting into the car, fasten your seatbelt and check your mirrors to see if each one offers you maximum visibility of your surroundings. If you’re driving a new car or a “newly-bought” secondhand auto, check your brakes and gas pedals to see if they’re working properly. Also look for leakage or things hanging from your vehicle. Another tip is to make sure that each of your tires is properly inflated.

Tip #2: Don’t forget to wear your seatbelt. Never underestimate the importance of wearing these safety belts. Aside from keeping you from lurching forward during a collision, these belts also helps keep you in place.

Tip #3: During low-visibility conditions or when night is rapidly approaching, turn on those headlights. While you can argue that streetlamps provide enough visibility for your auto, headlights are also a way to warn other vehicles of your approaching car. It’s not just for your benefit, but for other drivers’ as well.

Tip #4: Do stop when you see a STOP sign in front of you. Slowing down is not enough. Even if you see that there are no other vehicles near you, a rapidly approaching auto may fail to see you and this may result in an impact.

Tip #5: When approaching an intersection, stop with the nose of your vehicle just slightly over the line and turn left and right before proceeding.

Tip #6: Yellow means slow down, not speed up. Unless you’re already past the line marking the intersection, do slow down when you see the yellow light flash on the traffic lamp.

Tip #7: If you’re on a two-lane road where parking is allowed, stay near the center line to give people room to open their parked auto’s car doors. This simple tip stops you from swerving just to avoid an opening door. If the lane doesn’t allow parking on the sides, then position your auto toward the right to give more room for incoming vehicles.

Tip #8: Anticipate mistakes from other drivers. Some drivers can be pretty inconsiderate. Sometimes they swerve and overtake you without signaling. The key to avoiding impact is learning to anticipate the movement of the other vehicles surrounding your own.

Tip #9: If you’re experiencing engine or battery problems, pull over at a safe location. Meaning, don’t drive through a dying battery. Be considerate to other drivers. You wouldn’t want to cause traffic buildup, would you?

Tip #10: If your vehicle stalls, don’t leave it. Wait for the towing service people or the right authorities to come to your aid. Make sure your hazard lights are on as well, to warn incoming drivers that your auto is stationary.

Lifting My GMC K2500.Part lll

2008-08-26T03:13:00.000-07:00

There are a total of four brackets and 18 bolts involved in reattaching the front bumper (or six brackets and 22 bolts, if you didn't read the directions properly). I'd recommend getting a second person to help with this task, even though the bumper itself is far lighter than it looks.

With the bumper now cantilevered above the frame instead of sitting directly in front of the rails (see the before-and-after pics below), I think it's fair to raise a concern that perhaps it's not offering a lot of protection to the front of the truck anymore. A couple of weeks after this lift was installed, I hit a 50 lb dog with the truck, and it was enough to tweak one side of the bumper by about an inch. I think it's time to investigate a better bumper setup.

Once the bumper was in place, a test fitment of the wheels and tires showed that some extra clearance would be needed at the lower rear corners. First, I removed this little piece of plastic trim:

And then I attacked the bumper with the aforementioned cutoff wheel and removed a little chunk of material.

Alright, we're almost done. Time to crawl underneath one last time and tidy up the fuel lines. This was the only area of the project where I had to resort to zip ties.

Yes, that bit of corrosion on the brake lines is cause for concern. Now, it's finally time to mount the wheels and tires. I'm a big fan of using antisieze on the lugs, as well as any area where the wheel contacts the brake rotor/drum. GM states that lugs should never be lubricated, but I simply cannot bring myself to put lug nuts on a dry wheel stud because the odds are good I'll have to remove that nut someday.Stay tuned..

Source: Autopartswarehouse.com, Car Guides

How to Deal with Road Rage

2008-08-25T19:01:00.001-07:00

Late for an important meeting? Nothing can be worse than getting stuck in an exceptionally bad traffic jam with an incompetent and ultra-slow driver in front of your vehicle. Or how about that maniac driver who weaves in and out of traffic, overtaking your car with such ferocious speed that you find yourself clinging to your steering wheel to avoid crashing into the vehicle on the next lane? Have you ever experienced being at the wrong end of an enraged driver where you overtook (legally and safely) an ultra-slow driver and ended up getting chased “horror-film-style”?

If you’ve ever been in any of these situations, whether you’re the angry driver (righteously or not) or the scared one who just wants to get home as soon as possible, then you need to take some tips from the pros. And by pros I don’t mean me, since I’m more of a granny-driver than an on-road-maniac. Although there was this one time when I was with my ex-boyfriend (total road rage-r) wherein he attempted to spit at another driver on the freeway. Guess what? Spit landed on him because he forgot to roll down his window. FAIL.

Anyways, back to my original topic, I’ve scoured the wild world of the intarwebs to find the best tips available, and I’ve added some scenarios I’ve witnessed, seen on TV or experienced first-hand. So here it is, Dealing with Road Rage 101.

To Avoid Driving-Related Stress, Pad Your Travel Time. If it takes you around 30 minutes on a good day to get to work and an hour on a particularly slow day, I suggest you go with the hour-long travel time. Anticipate Traffic. If you have one of those fancy GPS gadgets in your car that has accurate traffic updates, then learn to Avoid Traffic. Lots of people get into accidents trying to plow their way through heavily congested roads. If you’re stuck in a traffic jam but you still have 45 minutes before your boss pops his head into your cubicle, then I suggest you thank your lucky stars because chances are, if you drive safely, you’ll get to work on time today.

Learn Defensive Driving. While you can’t control how other people drive (unless you’re a driving instructor or a well-known backseat driver), with the right training, you can minimize the risk of collision by practicing correct defensive driving. Defensive driving is designed to lessen the risks brought by driving by employing certain driving techniques and adhering to basic rules that include: no tailgating, staying within speeding limits and paying close attention to the movement of the vehicles surrounding your own.

Please. Do NOT retaliate. If you find yourself “wronged” by another driver, i.e. he/she overtakes your vehicle without signaling, resist the urge for “revenge”. Seriously, if you’re old enough to drive that means you’re old enough to be the bigger person. Sure, you can overtake the rude driver, but ask yourself: “Is showing the other driver who’s boss worth risking your life?” and while you may think I’m exaggerating with the “life” part, if the other driver has road rage too, then you might find yourself the recipient of an attack or a welcome bullet.

Going to mass when I was a kid, my uncle failed to see a fast-approaching vehicle rounding a turn. The other driver honked his horn twice and we stopped so my uncle could apologize to the enraged driver. To our surprise, the man brought out a gun (in broad daylight) and threatened to shoot my uncle. He only stopped when he realized that all my uncle’s passengers were women and kids. So better to be careful than dead, yeah?

If you’ve just annoyed an angry driver, please don’t taunt him. Don’t even make eye contact. A driver fueled by road rage is one looking for trouble. He or she would take any sign of “fighting back” as an attack against his/her person. Avoid eye contact and focus on getting to your destination safely. Don’t lose your cool and let the driver have his/her accident elsewhere.

Be the “bigger person”. And no, this is not a reference to actual size or advice for you to bulk up and beat the pulp out of the other driver. It simply means that if you get into a minor accident try to stay calm and polite. It wouldn’t do you any good if both you and the other driver threw tantrums at the same time. (And seriously, engaging in a fistfight in the middle of the road is NOT macho. It’s immature.)

If another driver is harassing you and following you around, don’t go home. Head to the nearest police station instead. Better safe than sorry. You’ll be surprised by how psychotic some people are. A minor traffic dispute could easily turn ugly, especially if the other driver is unable to “let things slide” and knows where you live.

After a close-call, breathe, relax and let it go. Instead of whining about the other driver and losing your patience and composure altogether, relax and let things slide. If no real harm was done to you or your vehicle, then learn not to take things personally. The important thing is that you’re safe and you’ve avoided an accident successfully.

Lifting My GMC K2500.Part ll

2008-08-23T05:36:00.000-07:00

After unclipping the fuel lines and wiring harness from the left framerail, under the cab, it's time to remove the six bolts retaining the body and get the actual process of lifting the truck underway:

This is done via my floor jack and a chunk of 4x4 lumber, placed behind the rocker panel (note that the cab is being lifted by the floorpan, and not the rocker sheetmetal!).

The lighting in these pictures sucks. Sorry, my full-time photographer was.. well, actually, that's me, and I was occupied with fending off frostbite. Once the cab has been lifted, the nylon lift blocks are slipped into place:

Yes, that's a scary stack of lumber. That thought was at the front of my mind as I inserted the eight blocks under the bed, which is why I made damn certain to keep my body parts clear of any pinch points. Once again, we do one side, then the other, and the bolts are then treated with an application of threadlocker, and tightened.

There's four blocks that need to be welded to the bed crossmembers that normally contact the frame (you can see one of them just to the upper right corner of my lumber stack).

So, now the body has been lifted and the easy stuff is done. What? Yep, the tough part of any project like this is addressing the little details. First, the fan shroud had to be clearanced in order to fit around the transmission cooler lines:

Note: an angle grinder with a 6" cutoff disc is the single best cutting tool to have for any automotive project. Ah, and now we've got some room. Note the zinc-plated drop-down bracket that's used to keep the fan shroud at its original height (the radiator was lifted with the body, but the engine fan is still down at chassis height).

Now, it's time to check for any other clearance issues. Note how close this transmission cooler line was to the fan:Stay tuned..

Source: Autopartswarehouse.com, Car Guides

Lifting My GMC K2500.Part l

2008-08-23T05:01:00.000-07:00

When those of us at Autoblog aren't busy writing about cars, we're busy working on them. A few months ago, I mentioned that I had scored a great deal on a set of Hummer H2 take-off wheels and tires. Being approximately 5" taller and 3" wider (they're the metric equivalent of 35x12.50"), fitting them was more than a simple bolt-on affair, and some lift was going to be required.

First, some mandatory disclaimers. Working on a project like this is hazardous. Don't ever get underneath a vehicle that isn't supported by jack stands or some other mechanical means, and don't ever trust a hydraulic jack with your life. A lot of "mission critical" components are affected by performing modifications such as this, and if you can't bet your life (and those of others) on your mechanical skills, seek the assistance of professionals. Follow the kit's instructions exactly, and refer to a factory service manual as needed. OK, now on to the fun stuff:

This picture shows the 245/75-16s and the H2's 315/70-17s; there's a substantial difference in size between the two tires.

I pulled the truck into my barn (my secondary choice for a project of this magnitude, but my garage was already occupied with an immobilized vehicle and a woodworking project). In the absence of a better plan, I started by, um, actually following the instructions for my Performance Accessories 3" body lift kit. First, I first installed the steering shaft extension:

All that stuff has to be removed for the sole purpose of accessing the bumper bolts. The front bumper is then removed, along with the stock brackets. Once that's done, the seat must be removed from the interior, and the floor covering pulled back to expose the shifter cable. No, really - there's no way around it. A small clip has to be removed from the cable so that an inch or so can be pulled through the grommet (don't worry - there's about two feet of extra cable coiled up under the seat).Stay tuned..

Source: Autopartswarehouse.com, Car Guides

Autopartswarehouse.com Project Garage: Big-brake install, Part II

2008-08-23T04:46:00.000-07:00

With our transmission project on hold while we await the arrival of some parts, it was finally time to open up the large and heavy (81 pounds!) box of Kore3 brake parts that showed up on our doorstep about a month ago. We covered the selection process in Part I, and now it's time to dive in and see exactly what we received.

We wrestled the box from our front porch and out to the pole barn with the aid of a two-wheel cart. Consider this a public apology to our local UPS driver.

Breaking out the trusty disposable knife (the one that always breaks on us while we're forcing a cut, and slices up our knuckles), we make the first cut while trembling with anticipation. OK, there wasn't much trembling - we reserve that for engine parts.

A nice set of braided stainless-steel brake lines and some miscellaneous mounting clips were the first parts that we stumbled upon.

Next was a caliper abutment bracket. The function of this part is to mount the caliper to the spindle, while providing a means for the single-acting caliper to slide upon its guide pins. This is an OEM GM part, so finding replacements in the future should be easy if the need arises.

Ah, now we're on to the good stuff. Here's the custom-machined hub that forms the heart of the kit. This part contains the bearing races and provides the correct 5x5" lug pattern and center registration feature to properly locate the rotor and OEM wheel.

And finally, we arrive at the real reason for this conversion - the beefy 13x1.25" Corvette rotor. This is the largest rotor that will fit under the stock Impala SS wheels when using the Corvette calipers. This particular part has been modified by Kore3 to add the 5x5" holes for the stock lug pattern, and to open up the center hole to allow it to mate with the hub.

The difference in size between the Corvette rotor and a stock 12x1" rotor is shown here (sharp-eyed readers may note that we're actually showing a stock rear rotor here, but it's basically the same dimensions as the stock front rotors).Stay tuned.....

Autopartswarehouse.com Project Garage: Big-brake install, Part 1

2008-08-23T03:44:00.000-07:00

Despite its 4200 lbs of "road-hugging mass", my '96 Chevrolet Impala SS manages to handle an autocross course with surprising grace and agility (that is, if one wants to apply such adjectives to an obnoxiously loud sedan that negotiates cones by frequent and well-timed applications of full opposite lock steering). Get it onto an open track, and then it's yet even more able to put its considerable power and adhesion to good use - for all of two or three laps. That's when the brake fluid reaches its boiling point and the pedal sinks to the floor, which is surely one of the most sickening feelings one can experience in an automobile.

A few friends and I have been talking about building such a system for our vehicles for a couple of years now, but while we were standing around the car jawing away, some folks in the GM G-body community were actually building parts. This DIY system was built using the taller spindles from a B-body, turned-down rotors, and Corvette C5 components for about $800 - a substantial savings over a commercially-purchased big-brake system. Other rotors and calipers could be substituted as one's wheels and budget permits. This was the path of choice and the next big science project on my list, until I recently stumbled across another option.

Kore3 Industries is a rather young company serving the performance brake segment, but one that seems to be making a name for itself by offering low-cost components and systems for some of the less-common domestic vehicles. At the heart of its B-body brake kit is a set of hubs that are fabricated from billet, instead of turned-down rotors.

I selected a complete kit using the 12.8x1.25" rotors, red-colored Z06 calipers, hubs, and miscelleanous other components required to install the system on my car. $1085 worth of damage to my credit card later, and something like this should be on the way:

Note that we ordered the kit with "blank" rotors, not the drilled and slotted parts shown above. Needless to say, I'll be eagerly awaiting the arrival of the big brown truck in about a week, and we'll be following the install once I get around to it. Stay tuned...

On Oil: Why Traveling with Too Much Oil is Just as Bad as Driving with Too Little

2008-08-20T20:43:00.000-07:00

Any pro mechanic would tell you that running with too little oil inside your auto is a bad thing. Without enough oil, your engine and its numerous components won’t be well-lubricated and this will result in engine damage and overheating almost instantaneously.

But while most drivers tend to forget about their ride’s oil levels, at the opposite end of the spectrum, there are some drivers who think that because it’s bad to have too little oil in the vehicle, then it’s automatically a brilliant idea to have too much oil in the engine system. Faulty logic and bad idea.

When it comes to vehicle maintenance, it’s best to be accurate with your measurements. Follow the instructions on your owner’s manual to a tee if possible and leave your creative juices flowing for other tasks.

Remember that a fine machine like your engine is crafted to run with a specific amount of oil. Operating it with too much or too little is never a good idea.

If your engine has too little oil, then the rods inside can break and your engine can seize—causing your engine to heat up until it burns. But if you have too much oil in your engine system, then your exhaust is sure to sputter out greasy clouds with increased pollutants that could damage your engine and its nearby components in the long run.

Prevent these scenarios by putting just the right amount of oil inside your vehicle. Check your auto’s oil levels regularly to find out when it’s best to add more oil. If your dipstick indicates that your oil levels are running low, then add a quart of oil—otherwise leave it alone.

How to Deal with a Soft or Flat Tire: Replacing your Tire While On the Road

2008-08-19T19:56:00.000-07:00

You often see people on the side of the road replacing a flat tire, and you probably think it won’t happen to you. But sometimes, when you’re just beyond unlucky, you end up with a soft or flat tire after running into a wayward nail or any other type of road debris. Once sharp material gets embedded in your tire, your tire begins to deflate.

Tell-Tale Signs of a Soft and Rapidly Going-Flat Tire

My mom’s right. If you’ve been driving for a while, you’ll notice when one of your tires has gone soft. When this happens, your auto’s balance becomes compromised.

A little trick I learned from a good friend on how to determine if one of your tires is soft, is by driving slowly with a clear patch of even road ahead and letting go of your steering wheel. Exercise caution and please don’t try to conduct this test when there are other vehicles surrounding your car—you wouldn’t want to run into an accident, right?

If one of your tires is soft, your auto won’t be able to run straight without a little help from your steering wheel.

So What Do You Do When Your Tire Goes Flat on the Road?

The best thing you can do is to pull over to the side of the road, or an emergency lane when you’re in the freeway, as soon as possible. When parking your car temporarily, make sure you have enough space to walk around your vehicle without any risk of getting run over by some random driver. Make sure you park in a level and stable area, just in case you do need to change the tire.

If you do have a flat tire, follow these steps:

1. Turn on your Hazard Lights. Your hazard lights are an efficient way of telling other drivers that your auto is stationary and will be stationary for the next hour or so.

2. If you have an in-vehicle emergency kit, then bring out your emergency lights and flares and set them up. This should tell other drivers that your auto has encountered a problem and that you’ll be fixing it.

3. If you don’t have a spare tire, proceed to #4. If you need to replace your old tire, skip the following instructions and head on to “If You Want to Replace Your Flat Tire” at #6.

If You Don’t Have a Spare Tire:

4. If you have a can of tire-inflation spray and you think you have a good chance of getting to your house or to a mechanic in time before your tire gives out, then inflate your deflated tire. Otherwise, call-a-friend or a tow truck to get you and your vehicle home.

5. Inform the mechanic or anyone who’s working with your vehicle that you used a flat-tire-fix solution on your car.

If You Want to Replace Your Flat Tire:

6. Make sure you’re parked in a level surface. Using the jack assembly is serious business. I mean someone could get hurt if you don’t use it correctly or if you don’t exercise caution! To avoid getting run over by your own car, please park in a level area.

7. Look for your spare tire and inspect it for signs of wear or damage. You wouldn’t want to change your tires only to find out that your “spare” happens to be an old, used tire that’s flatter than a pancake. Don’t waste your time and energy, and make sure you have the right replacement tire with you.

8. From your tool kit, bring out your jack assembly and owner’s manual. The jack assembly is designed to prop up your vehicle and to let you work on it. The owner’s manual gives you the instructions on how to replace your auto’s tire and how to use your jack assembly. Nifty, right? :D

9. Bring out an old cloth or any type of cloth you have with you (just make sure you’re not planning on using it ever again), and clean out the dirt and debris on your wheel and tire.

10. Bring out your spare tire and set it aside. Do this before you jack up your car so you won’t have to wrestle with your auto when you try to remove your spare tire later on.

11. Take your jack and all its various parts and lay ‘em out with your owner’s manual nearby.

12. If your ride is sporting hubcaps or wheel covers, remove this disk from your damaged tire to gain access to your wheel’s lug nuts.

13. Look for your jack’s lug device and loosen up your wheel’s lug nuts.

14. Jack up your car (within the area of the flat), following the instructions on your owner’s manual. Use extreme caution when using this device.

NOTE: Make sure no one is inside the vehicle while you’re jacking up your car. Needless to say, keep your pet/s and children away from the vehicle while you’re changing your flat tire. Also, keep all parts of your body away from the underside of your auto while you’re working to avoid any form of accident.

15. Using the jack handle, raise your auto’s height just enough to remove weight on your flat tire and to allow for its removal and easy replacement. Don’t jack up your auto beyond what is needed.

16. Remove your wheel’s lug nuts and set them aside. You’ll be using them later to secure your new wheel.

17. Remove your busted tire and make sure you don’t jostle your car too much or let parts of your body to slip under the wheel, just in case the jack slips. Set your old tire aside.

18. Mount your spare tire in place and screw the lug nuts—but DON’T TIGHTEN them yet. You need to tighten these lug nuts once your auto is off the jack.

19. Follow the instructions in your owner’s manual and lower your auto back on the ground.

20. Remove your jack from your auto and disassemble it.

21. Using your lug device or tire bar, secure the lug nuts as tight as possible.

22. Put your old tire back into your car with your jack assembly.

23. Remove your emergency lights and turn off your hazard lights.

NOTE: After replacing your tire, don’t drive recklessly or don’t travel at excessive speeds. Be mindful of any sort of tire shimmy or wobble. If you experience slight wobbling, pull over and retighten your lug nuts before your tire or entire wheel falls off. Try to get to a garage to add pressure to your spare tire and to check your lug nuts if they truly are secure. Ask if they can repair your old tire so that it can become your new spare.

How to Deal with a Soft or Flat Tire (Part I)

2008-08-18T20:26:00.000-07:00

The flat tire is one of the most common car problems encountered by millions of drivers around the world. And it never ceases to amaze me how so many drivers (guys and girls included, kiddies) are at a loss when they do end up with a flat—whether at home or out on the road.

My mother used to tell me, “You’ll feel it when your tire goes soft”, which to me in my teenage years sounded more like, “if you get a flat, it’s because you weren’t focusing on driving”. So, I had to learn the hard way. After getting a flat in the middle of the freeway and having to call my dad to fetch me and to help me change a flat tire, (coincidentally both my parents didn’t know I was out until I called them—I used the old “pillow-under-the-blanket” tactic) I had to learn how to remedy a flat tire, pronto.

I once dated a guy who made me change his tire for him. ique horror!

While checking your tires and their respective tire pressures are all part of routine auto maintenance, sometimes unexpected things happen, like you park in a rocky area and find yourself with a soft tire. Or you can run over a nail or a piece of glass that has been left on the road and you wake up the next morning to a flat tire. When you find yourself in this type of situation, your best option is to fix the tire as soon as possible.

Flat-Tire Sprays
Flat-tire spray remedies like the Fix-A-Flat can are meant to close off small punctures in your auto. It also gives your damaged tire enough air pressure to let you travel for a short distance. After using this type of spray, it’s highly recommended that you head home or bring your vehicle to a nearby garage for immediate repair or tire replacing.

When you take your car to a garage or professional mechanic for tire repair, be sure to tell the technician that you’ve just used an emergency flat-tire spray. Most of the components found in this spray are flammable and it’s always an excellent idea to inform anyone who’s going to be working near your tire that flammable substance is present. Inhalation of this substance can have dire consequences too. So keep everyone safe by being upfront with your flat-tire solutions.

When Your Vehicle’s Tire Goes Flat or Soft at Home…
If during one of your maintenance checks you find that you have a soft tire or a flat one, your best recourse is to add enough air into your tire to return it to normal. If the tire refuses to return to normal even after you’ve added air, then there’s a high chance that your tire is damaged.

Check the exterior to find signs of anything sharp or protruding like a nail, a rock or a piece of glass. If you see anything, remove the material carefully to avoid further damage on your tire.

Now, try adding air again. If the tire goes soft in a short period of time, add more air and move your hand around the tire to find out where the air is escaping from. If you feel the air escaping from a certain part of your tire, then you’ve found the location of your tire damage. If the problem is just a small puncture, then your local garage should be able to patch up your tire in no time. If it’s severe, however, you may have to replace your old tire completely.

Use a flat-tire spray to help you get to the local garage in time. There are some flats that would require you to use the entire can of flat-tire spray, so be sure to buy more tire spray when you get to your local auto parts store or garage.

Let’s Talk Cars and Car Parts: A Lexicon on Car Lingo (Part VIII)

2008-08-13T20:11:00.000-07:00

Here’s the last part of the incredibly long auto parts series.  Enjoy.

Timing Belt
Also called the Timing Chain;

The timing belt is a belt designed to help the crankshaft drive your auto’s camshaft(s).

Timing Light
The timing light is a type of strobe light designed to measure and adjust your auto’s timing belt.

Tire Rotation
A process designed to rearrange your tires by realigning them or rotating them, effectively minimizing wear and tear and increasing each tire’s lifespan. Your owner’s manual should indicate the right time (usually indicated through mileage) to have your tires rotated.

Transmission
The auto system designed to control the operation and the adjustment of your engine and its gears.

Tune-Up
Also known as Auto Tune-Ups;

The tune-up is an important part of correct and regular auto maintenance. This process usually involves the inspection of your vehicle for signs of damage and the replacement of various auto parts including your air filter and spark plugs.

Universal Joint
Also called the U-Joint, the Cardan Joint, the Hooke’s Joint or the Hardy-Spicer Joint;

The universal joint is basically a joint installed into a rigid rod. It allows the rod to be bent in different directions and is commonly used in shafts designed to create rotary motions. Each U-joint contains two standard hinges located near each other.

Valve Job
A complicated engine repair process wherein the engine valves and cylinder heads are reconditioned. This process is designed to help improve engine performance by putting a stop to excessive oil consumption and oily smoke.

Vehicle Identification Number
Often shortened to VIN;

The vehicle identification number is a unique number assigned to a new vehicle. This allows the government and the automaker to keep track of the vehicle throughout its lifetime. This number can be mounted in several different places, including the engine block, near the front doors or on the intersection of your windshield and dashboard.

Water Pump
The water pump is typically located in your engine cooling system. As you can already surmise from its name, this device is designed to pump water throughout your engine system.

Wheel Chocks
Wheel chocks basically refer to any item that you place in front your tires to prevent it from rolling. This practice is usually done when the vehicle is parked in a hill or an inclined plane.

Wheel
The wheel is the part of your vehicle, usually acting as the hub of the axle, where your tires are mounted.

Wheel Alignment
A computer-guided auto process designed to realign your tires to restore its normal operation. If you tend to drive off-road often, or if your tires have retained damages brought by sleet-covered roads and icy streets, you’ll need to have your wheels realigned as soon as possible. Misaligned wheels can lead to difficulties in steering and delayed wheel response.

Wheel Cylinder
The wheel cylinder is an important part of your brake system. You’ll find this handy auto part installed on the backing plate of your drum brake assembly. The wheel cylinder is designed to turn hydraulic pressure to mechanical energy designed to efficiently stop or slow your wheels.

Wheel Cylinder Piston
The wheel cylinder piston is the part of your wheel cylinder that pushes against your vehicle’s brake drum.

Wheel Shimmy
While it may sound like an unorthodox dance move, the wheel shimmy is actually just the wobbling sensation that you get from your vehicle. Wheel shimmies are often caused by poor wheel alignment.

Windshield Wiper
Also known as the Windscreen Wiper;

The windshield wiper is an auto component designed to wipe raindrops or dirt from your windshield. You’ll find this handy auto unit installed in almost all the different motor vehicles that come with windshields, including watercrafts, aircrafts and trains. In most countries, the presence of the windshield wiper is considered mandatory.

Windshield
Also known as Windscreen;

The windshield is basically your auto’s forefront window and is one of the earliest safety features installed in a vehicle. It is designed to keep you protected from debris and harsh winds as you travel. Windshields are usually constructed using hardwearing and durable laminated safety glass for better protection.

Wing Mirrors
Also known as Side Mirrors;

Your vehicle’s wing mirrors are basically mirrors installed on each side of your vehicle. These mirrors are designed to maximize your driving visibility by giving you a better view of the road conditions behind and beside your vehicle. These mirrors are also crafted to help eliminate blind spots, allowing you to react to incoming vehicles appropriately.

Let’s Talk Cars and Car Parts: A Lexicon on Car Lingo (Part VII)

2008-08-11T19:45:00.000-07:00

As you can tell, I'm a bit obsessive-compulsive when it comes to my posts. But the good news is: one more post and I’m done with this auto parts guide! W00t!

Seats
Also known as Car Seats, Auto Seats or Vehicle Seats;

Refers to the seating area of an automobile. Seating capacity differs depending on your auto’s make and model. In some vehicles, seats can be folded to increase seating capacity.

Seatbelt
The seatbelt is one of the most important passive safety features installed in your vehicle. It is designed to prevent your body from lurching forward in the event of impact or collision. It also keeps hyperactive kids (and kids at heart) stay in place while you travel.

Shock Absorber
Sometimes referred to as Shocks;

The shock absorber is an integral part of your auto’s suspension system. There is one shock absorber positioned at each of your wheels to help control the up-and-down movement generated by your suspension spring. It helps improve your ride quality and provides you better control over your vehicle.

Snow Tire
The snow tire is a specialized tire designed to improve your treads. This tire, as you can already surmise from its name, is best suited to perform when you drive through icy streets and snow-covered areas. There are some states that may require you to remove your snow tires after the winter season.

Spark Plug
Sometimes shortened to Plugs;

The spark plug is a vital part of your ignition assembly. The number of spark plugs installed in your vehicle depends on the number of engine cylinders you’ll find in your vehicle. The ratio is 1:1, so for every engine cylinder, you’ll find a spark plug sitting on top of it. The spark plug is designed to ignite the compressed aerosol gasoline on each of your engine cylinders, thereby starting the fuel combustion process.

Speedometer
The speedometer is a specialized gauge that calculates the rate of speed by which your auto travels. In most modern vehicles, the speedometer is shown on an LED display.

Starter Ring Gear
Also called the Ring Gear or Starter Ring;

The starter ring gear refers to a medium carbon steel ring that has teeth. It is often fixed on the periphery of your auto’s flywheel or flexplate and is used for automotive operations.

Steering Wheel
Also called the Hand Wheel or the Driving Wheel;

The steering wheel is one of the most important parts of your auto’s steering mechanism. It’s designed to help you turn your vehicle and is also used to steer boats, ships and other modes of transportation.

Suspension
Also called the Suspension System or the Auto Suspension System;

The suspension is the part of your vehicle designed to control any unprecedented movements of your auto. It is also designed to help keep your vehicle balanced by ensuring that your tires are always in contact with the ground. The suspension system is also designed to limit the up-and-down undulations of your vehicle as it goes through road irregularities or as the leaf springs contract and rebound.

Tachometer
The tachometer is basically an instrument designed to measure the rotation speed of your disk or shaft, as you’ll find in machines and other motor vehicles. It is configured to display your disk or shaft’s RPM or revolutions per minute.

Tailpipe
Also spelled as Tail Pipe;

The tailpipe is an integral part of your exhaust system. It is designed to release exhaust emissions from the vehicle and is often situated at the rear end of an automobile. This exhaust component is designed to prevent noxious fumes from entering your passenger’s compartment, and also reduces the overall operating temperature of your auto.

Thermostat
The thermostat is a part of your engine cooling system. It is created to help monitor the temperature of your engine, controlling the amount of coolant-water mixture that is pumped through your auto’s engine system.

Let’s Talk Cars and Car Parts: A Lexicon on Car Lingo (Part VI)

2008-08-06T20:30:00.000-07:00

Odometer
The odometer refers to the electronic device installed in your auto that displays the number of miles you’ve driven. In most states, tampering with the odometer for better auto resale value is considered I-L-L-E-G-A-L. Translation: don’t mess with the odometer.

Oil Change
This is an important part of regular vehicle maintenance. It basically involves you draining out your old oil from your auto and replacing it with fresh oil. In most cases, you’ll also need to replace your oil filter in the process.

Oil Filter
A filter designed to prevent dirt and other types of impurities from entering your engine. This helps prevent fuel contamination.

Oil Pan
Also known as the Oil Sump;

The oil pan is located under your engine and is designed to house the excess oil that has been used to lubricate your engine’s various components. It basically prevents the oil from spilling out of your auto or into the rest of your vehicle parts.

Oil Pump
The oil pump is an important part of the engine’s lubrication system. As you can already gather from its name, the oil pump is designed to distribute or transport engine oil into the engine.

Oil Viscosity
Oil viscosity refers to the thickness or thinness of the type of oil used in internal combustion engines.

Piston
Your vehicle uses a number of different types of pistons. But most of the time, this term commonly pertains to the auto component in your engine cylinders that move up and down continuously as you travel.

Piston Ring
The piston ring refers to an open-ended ring, designed to fit into the groove of your piston’s diameter. It is meant to regulate your engine’s consumption of oil, and it also serves to support heat transfer from your auto’s piston to the cylinder wall. It can also be used to seal the combustion chamber and is popularly used in steam engines as well.

Points
Also referred to as Ignition Points;

Your vehicle’s points are designed to transfer electrical charge to your spark plugs for the ignition process. You’ll find these points inside the distributor body, directly under the distributor cap where you’ll find the rotor. The rotor turns and conveys electrical charge from your auto’s battery into the ignition points.

Primer
Primer refers to a special type of paint which is used to prep your auto surface to help the succeeding coats of paint stick to the frame better. It is also used to help prevent rust from spreading on your vehicle’s exterior.

Rack and Pinion
Your vehicle’s rack and pinion refers to the gears designed to turn rotational motion into linear motion.

Radiator
The radiator is one of the most important parts of your vehicle, and is the heart of the engine-cooling system. It is designed to keep the engine’s operating temperatures in check to prevent overheating. Coolant is usually used to suck out the heat from the engine to help prevent operating temperatures from skyrocketing.

Radiator Cap
The radiator cap refers to a type of pressurized cap placed on top of your vehicle’s radiator. When opening the radiator cap, be sure to exercise a lot of caution, since the cap might just end up flying off and the radiator contents spilling on you and other nearby auto components.

Radiator Hose
The radiator hose is basically a heat-resistant hose that connects the radiator to the outer hosing of the thermostat.

Rear Suspension
The rear suspension is the part of your suspension system designed to bear your auto’s load and evenly distribute the weight throughout the rear portion of your vehicle.

Rearview Mirror
Sometimes spelled as the Rear-View Mirror;

The rearview mirror is the mirror mounted inside your vehicle, at the center of the foremost end of your cabin. It is designed to give you maximum visibility of the automobiles and road conditions behind and partially beside your vehicle.

Ring Job
The ring job refers to the act of replacing the rings inside the auto cylinders. When you have blue smoke emerging from your tailpipe, this usually indicates a problem with your auto rings.

Rocker Arm
The rocker arm is a type of reciprocating lever that is used to send radial info coming from the cam lobe into linear information at the valves to open them.

Rust
Generally classified as Corrosion;

Rust pertains to the oxidation of metal that causes the corrosive agents to eat away at the rest of the metal. In other words: rust spreads.

Starter Motor
Also called Auto Starter or simply Starter;

The starter motor, as you can already surmise from its name, is a type of electric motor designed to initiate the “turning over” of the engine before your vehicle can start properly.

Let’s Talk Cars and Car Parts: A Lexicon on Car Lingo (Part V)

2008-08-05T20:07:00.000-07:00

(I should have just written a book on this *sigh*. But oh well, almost done ;) )

Gear
Refers to your vehicle’s transmission gear speed

Gearbox
Also known as Transmission;

The Gearbox is basically a transmission that gives the speed-torque conversion, which we also know as “speed reduction” or “gear reduction”, from higher speeds to slower but more controlled speeds.

Grille
Also called the Auto Grille;

The grille is the opening you’ll find at the foremost part of your car. It’s usually situated between your headlights and is made of metal. Most automakers use the grille as a way to distinguish their vehicles from similar models—you’ll find that most car brands actually put their logos on the grille and at the vehicle’s rear bumper. Grilles can be used to help increase air flow over your radiator. But there are some grilles which are positioned in front of the wheels to cool the brakes and in your vehicle’s cowl for more efficient interior ventilation. Honeycomb is one of the most common grille designs available.

If you’re into customizing your auto, a custom-made grille can surely help boost your vehicle’s aesthetics.

Gudgeon Pin
If you have an internal combustion engine, then the gudgeon pin serves as the main connection between you connecting rod and piston. It has a bearing that allows the connecting rod to pivot while you travel.

Hazard Lights
Hazard Lights are the auto lights you use when you pull over or leave your vehicle idling. These lights refer to the simultaneously-blinking lights found at the rear of your vehicle. Once activated, these lights are used to warn other drivers that your auto is idle, giving them time to avoid your stationary vehicle.

Headlight
Also known (and more appropriately so) as Headlamp;

The headlight is one of the most important auto lights installed in your vehicle. These lights are designed to help you maximize your driving visibility by illuminating the road ahead when you travel at night or during low-visibility conditions.

Headlights can also be used on bicycles and motorcycles.

If we were to get technical, the term “headlamp” is the more appropriate term for this auto light. The word “headlight” is supposed to refer to the beams produced by the lamp.

Ignition Coil
Also known as the Spark Coil or Spark Plug Coil;

The ignition coil refers to the induction coil that you’ll find in your vehicle’s ignition system. It is used to convert your battery’s 12 volts into the thousands of volts required by your spark plugs.

Intake Manifold
The intake manifold is designed to distribute the combustion mixture (air-fuel mixture) evenly to each cylinder head’s intake port. Equal distribution of the mixture allows for better fuel combustion and maximum engine performance.

Jump-Start
The act of restoring power to a drained auto battery. This can be done by either using jumper cables and connecting them to another battery or using an electrical, portable device to bring power to a depleted battery. (Some Jump-Starting Devices can be plugged into the lighter socket found inside your vehicle)

Kingpin
It has nothing to do with bowling. The auto kingpin refers to the main pivot found in the steering mechanism of your vehicle.

Magneto
(Not the Marvel character) This auto part is an electronic device designed to bring current to your spark plugs.

Main body
*Also known as the Auto Body or Vehicle Body;
The main construction of your auto. This massive vehicle part includes the underbody of your ride, the roof, the deck lid, dashboard, doors and all the body panels on your auto frame.

Manifold
Includes the Exhaust Manifold and the Intake Manifold;

A manifold basically refers to the component that’s designed to move exhaust emissions from the engine to the rest of the exhaust components or to move air-fuel mixture into your engine. Remember, there’s more than one manifold installed in your vehicle.

Master Cylinder
The master cylinder is the central part of your brake system. It is the auto part that houses your brake fluid. It’s also responsible for producing pressure to help slow or stop your wheels completely.

Misfire
Also called Engine Misfire, Engine Cylinder and Misfiring Engine;

This is the condition wherein your vehicle’s air-fuel mixture does not ignite properly.

Muffler
The muffler is a vital part of your exhaust system. It is designed to lessen the noise generated by your vehicle while you travel.

Let’s Talk Cars and Car Parts: A Lexicon on Car Lingo (Part IV)

2008-08-04T19:59:00.001-07:00

And now, to continue the never-ending series… (lolz)

Diagnostic Trouble Code
Shortened to DTC;

The Diagnostic Trouble Code refers to the code created by the computer-based auto to help hasten the identification of an auto problem. This code tells you when your vehicle has cooling issues, brake malfunction or even low oil pressure. To read this code, you need to have a handy Diagnostic Trouble Code Reader nearby.

Diagnostic Trouble Code Reader
Shortened to DTC Reader;

Reads your auto’s DTC. You can connect this handy device in an outlet usually located inside your car to be able to read the code generated by your vehicle’s built-in computer.

Differential
Refers to a type of gearbox that can be used in either one of two ways: (1) to put together two inputs to create a single output; or (2) to readily take one input and produce two separate outputs. The latter is usually the standard differential used in all vehicles.

I know it sounds confusing, but its purpose is basically to let each one of your driving wheels rotate at differing speeds, while at the same time giving them equal amounts of torque.

The differential system is also called “pumpkin”—go figure. I heard it has something to do with the shape of the system.

Distributor
The auto part responsible for directing electrical current to your vehicle’s spark plugs.

Distributor Cap
The cap that seals the distributor. If you have a broken distributor cap, you’ll need to replace it immediately to avoid further damage on your engine and its surrounding auto components.

Drive Shaft
Also called the Driving Shaft, Cardan Shaft or the Propeller Shift;

The drive shaft is basically a mechanical device designed to transfer power from your engine to the component where useful work is applied. Automobile engines usually transfer power as torque using a rotary motion.

Electronic Control Unit
Shortened as ECU;

The ECU is basically a unit designed to control the different facets of your internal combustion engine’s operation. Some tasks controlled by the ECU includes the amount of fuel allowed to enter into the cylinder with every engine cycle, ignition timing, the boost retained by the turbocharger and VVT or variable valve timing.

It does its job by monitoring your engine through your car’s different sensors, including the oxygen sensor, air temperature sensor, MAP sensor and the throttle position sensor to name a few.

Engine
If your auto is powered through gas, then this auto component also goes by the name: “Internal Combustion Engine”;

The engine is the part of your automobile designed to provide power to your auto through the fuel combustion process.

Engine Knock
The knocking noise or harsh compression sound you hear sometimes when your engine burns your air-fuel mixture too quickly. When this happens, it’s your cue to take your vehicle to a professional mechanic to check for auto problems ASAP.

Exhaust System
The auto system responsible for converting harsh gases produced by the engine’s combustion operations into safer byproducts, and later releasing these emissions via your tailpipe.

The exhaust system usually includes your muffler, catalytic converter, exhaust manifold/header, resonator, hangers and tailpipe.

Exhaust Gas Recirculation
Shortened to EGR;

A technique used to reduce the amount of Oxides of Nitrogen produced by your diesel or gasoline engine. This technique works by recirculating a part of your exhaust gases back into your engine cylinders. When mixed with the inward-bound air, the exhaust gases begin to dilute, reducing the excess oxygen in your engine. Since NOx (Oxides of Nitrogen) form faster at incredibly high temperatures, using this technique lowers the risk of massive NOx production.

Exhaust Manifold
A part of your exhaust system where hot exhaust gases flow through before reaching your catalytic converter and exiting through the tailpipe.

Exhaust Pipe
Another exhaust system component designed to guide your exhaust emissions away from your engine and other vital components. (Hint: there’s typically more than one pipe found in your auto)

Fan Belt
Also called the Accessory Belt;

The fan belt powers different auto accessories like your a/c compressor, alternator, water pump, power steering pump and power brakes by going around a pulley that is attached to your flywheel. Some cars have one serpentine belt, others have two. Check your owner’s manual to find out which one you have.

Flushing the Radiator
The process by which you drain your radiator from broken-down coolant and impurities by using water. The process of draining is often done once or twice a year.

Frame
Also known as the Auto Body or Auto Frame;

The frame refers to the primary support of your vehicle’s different substructures and components.

Freeplay
Freeplay pertains to the amount of time between the moment you depress on your brake pedal and the instance your brakes actually engage.

Front Suspension
As you can surmise from its name, the front suspension is the foremost part of your suspension system designed to support the front end of your auto.

Fuel Injection
A system generally used by most vehicles to control the amount of fuel that is either injected or sprayed into the auto’s engine.

Fuel Injector
The fuel injector is the auto component that injects fuel into your engine. Each fuel injector typically has a valve and a nozzle.

Fuel Pump
The fuel pump is a crucial component for most vehicles. It is designed to supply fuel to the engine.

Fuel Tank
The fuel tank is where you store your gas each time you take a trip to the gas pump.

Let’s Talk Cars and Car Parts: A Lexicon on Car Lingo (Part III)

2008-07-31T00:39:00.000-07:00

(Note: Iknoerite. I’m posting just hours away from my last post. Bear with me, I’m seriously trying to finish this lexicon as soon as possible. Lolz)

Camshaft

The camshaft is another highly important engine part which is usually controlled by your crankshaft. (see crankshaft below)

Carburetor

Your vehicle’s carburetor is a huge part of your combustion engine. It is designed to feed your engine with the correct air-to-fuel mixture for guaranteed excellent fuel combustion, which of course results in powerful engine performance.

Catalytic Converter

Remember the part about auto emissions? Well, the catalytic converter is one of the most important parts of your exhaust system. Almost all governments around the world require vehicles to be equipped with at least one catalytic converter.

Its main purpose is to neutralize the toxic gases produced by your vehicle during the fuel combustion process. These gases include hydrocarbons, carbon monoxide and oxides of nitrogen. To help keep your engine protected from these pollutants, while at the same time preventing your auto from contributing to the worsening air pollution, these noxious fumes are converted into less harmful byproducts like carbon dioxide and water vapor, through chemical reaction.

So, with a great catalytic converter, you’re actually protecting the environment and saving your engine.

Car Door

Also known as the Auto Door and Vehicle Door;

It’s pretty much self-explanatory, but I’m not lazy so here it goes: (just skip if you know what this is already)

This is the part of your vehicle where you enter and exit. It contains two skins, one inside your vehicle and the other outside of it. The inner skin is softer and it contains your door’s numerous components like the locks, rotors and etc. While the outer skin is the harder part of your auto door, designed to offer you and your passengers protection in case of a low-speed, side-collision.

Choke

This auto component is responsible for letting air flow into your vehicle’s carburetor. The amount of air that the choke lets in depends on the operating temperatures of your auto. If your engine is cold, then not much air is needed, so the choke assembly instantly closes the aperture. But if the engine is warm, then more air is required, and the choke opens up the aperture.

Clutch

If you’re driving a manual-transmission car, then you ought to be very familiar with this auto part. But for you automatic-transmission drivers, the clutch is basically a component that is controlled using a foot pedal. The foot pedal is located at the far, left end of your pedal row. The clutch is designed to help the vehicle’s engine shift into a different gear.

Connecting Rod

Also known as the Conrod;

If you have a reciprocating piston engine, then it is your auto’s connecting rod which joins the crankshaft and the piston together.

Crankshaft

Shortened to Crank;

The crankshaft is basically a revolving auto unit found near the bottom of your vehicle’s engine.

Cylinder Head

If you have an internal combustion engine, then it is the cylinder head which attaches to the top of your engine cylinders. It has a platform where the spark plugs and valves are located. It also contains a portion of your engine’s combustion chamber.

Cylinder

Also known as the Engine Cylinder;

The cylinder basically refers to the round holes you’ll find in your engine. These round holes are designed to accommodate the engine pistons as they conduct their up and down undulating movement.

Cylinder Block

This large auto part is basically the frame of your engine. It is the auto component where most of your engine’s parts are attached.

Dashboard

Also known as Dash or Fascia;

It is the main control panel that you’ll find inside your vehicle, directly under the windshield. It contains the instrumentation and the controls of your vehicle. You’ll also find some of your vehicle’s auto lights on your dashboard.

Let’s Talk Cars and Car Parts: A Lexicon on Car Lingo (Part II)

2008-07-30T19:13:00.000-07:00

To continue our list of car parts and auto mechanic lingo, here’s the rest of my segmented auto parts and terms list. (See, I did it in alphabetical order to make it easier for you to spot the vehicle part or word/s that you’re trying to understand).

Auxiliary Shaft

The auxiliary shaft is often found in overhead cam engines. It basically operates the rest of your engine’s support components like the oil pump, the water pump (sometimes), the fuel pump and the distributor.

Axle

This is one of the most important supporting structural parts in your auto. It’s basically the central support for your wheels. It runs from the front of your vehicle up to the rear. It functions as a type of crosspiece that either attaches to your wheels or supports them.

Belts

Let this be your main introduction to belts. You’ll find at least two types of belts in your auto: the fan belt and the timing belt.

Auto belts are basically looped strips of extremely flexible material that are used to link two or more rotation shafts in your vehicle. Sometimes, these belts can be the main source of motion, acting as a way to track movement or transmit power.

Brakes

Now, I’m sure you’re more or less familiar with this auto part. Your brakes are designed to help you slow down your vehicle after rapid acceleration or to stop your vehicle abruptly. Stopping your auto abruptly, though sometimes required to avoid impact, is hardly recommended when you’re driving through light or moderate traffic.

If you stop abruptly, and the car behind you is rushing full speed, the driver behind you might not be able to step on the brakes on time, resulting in a rear-end collision. This is one of the main causes of multiple collisions in highways. So, remember, use your brakes wisely.

Different vehicles also have varying brake systems. Some of the more common brakes/brake systems include the drum, disc, automatic, antilock, power, computer-controlled, electrical and hydraulic brakes.

Brake Caliper

The brake caliper, as you can already gather from its name, is basically an important component installed in a disc brake system. Its main job is to turn hydraulic pressure into mechanical force. This auto unit usually includes your brake pads and piston.

Brake Drum

Yes, it’s another brake unit. It is basically a part of the brake cylinder that is designed to move with the wheel. Your auto’s brake shoes usually surround this brake component.

Brake Pad

Also known as the Brake Lining;

This auto part is basically a form of abrasive material that is very similar to heavy grade sandpaper. This component is designed to help you slow down or stop your auto completely.

Brake Shoe

As was already mentioned, brake shoes are usually situated around the brake drum. It is contoured or curved in appearance and is specifically designed to constrict or push against the drum to help stop or slow down the wheel movement.

Bumper

The bumper is one of the most important auto components installed in your vehicle’s exterior. It is installed on both the front end and the rear end of your auto. In the event of a low-speed collision, it is this auto part that sustains the impact to avoid damaging your safety systems or auto frame. Designed to withstand low-speed collisions with its flexing “crumple zone” that pushes against the other vehicle’s bumper, keep in mind that it can’t offer you much protection in case of a high-speed impact.

Most bumpers are constructed from heavy steel, although some auto manufacturers today are going for lighter substitutes like light metal and thermo-plastic. While plastic and light metal can offer some degree of protection for your auto, it leaves your vehicle more susceptible to damage even with the slightest impact.

Let’s talk Cars and Car Parts: A Lexicon on Car Lingo (Part I)

2008-07-28T20:24:00.000-07:00

Before you can start fixing your car and addressing its many problems, you’ll first need to learn about its many parts and their corresponding functions. This way, if you ever decide to take your auto to a professional, you won’t have problems understanding his or her terms and the parts the mechanic is referring to. The last thing you’ll want is to get cheated into replacing multiple parts when the only problem you have is with your current fuel tank cap or whatnot.

So, without further ado, behold: the lexicon of common auto parts and their functions (PART I):

Air Filter

The air filter, as you can already surmise from its name, refers to a type of contraption designed to remove miniscule but solid particulates like mold, bacteria, dust and pollen from the air. This form of filter is not only used in cars, but is also used in ventilation systems, internal combustion engines, gas turbines, gas compressors, driving compressors etc.

Inside your auto, you can find this filter over your vehicle’s carburetor. The auto air filter is designed to prevent dirt and dust from entering and accumulating inside your carburetor.

Air Injection

These days, one of the most effective ways to reduce auto emissions is by injecting or adding air into your catalytic converter or exhaust manifold. Air injection basically refers to the act of injecting air into these auto components as a way to lessen harmful auto emissions.

Air-to-Fuel Ratio or Air/Fuel Ratio

For your internal combustion engine to perform at its most efficient, it requires the proper burning of fuel, which means having the right air-to-fuel mixture inside your engine. The right mixture depends on the type of engine you have and the amount of carbon or hydrogen that is present inside the fuel you’re using.

Air Pump

The air pump is a type of belt-driven pump that is designed to help inject more air into an air injection auto to help lessen its harmful emissions.

All-Season Tires

While we often have to change tires every changing season, all-season tires are specifically designed to give you better traction during wet or snowy seasons while still giving you perfect handling even as you pass through dry roads—think all-around tires.

Alternator

Most drivers believe that the main source of energy found in a vehicle is the car battery. But while the auto battery is no doubt capable of powering your vehicle completely, it could only do so in a short period of time. So to convert mechanical energy into electrical energy, your auto employs the help of the alternator.

The alternator is designed to power your auto’s numerous electrical components, and this includes your stereo and your auto lights.

Anti-Lock Braking System

Shortened as ABS;

The ABS (Anti-Lock Braking System) is a type of brake that efficiently measures wheel speed and makes the immediate corresponding adjustments by increasing or reducing the amount of hydraulic pressure placed on your vehicle’s brakes. This prevents your vehicle from skidding or your brakes from locking each time you depress on your brake pedal.

Anti-Smog Device

This is an added part that is usually placed inside your car’s exhaust system. In some states, the installation of this device is mandatory. As you can already gather from its name, this device is designed to lessen the type of emissions from your vehicle which are scientifically proven to contribute to smog.

Auto Emissions

Also called exhaust emissions, car emissions and vehicle emissions;

Auto emissions refer to the gases produced by your vehicle during the fuel combustion process. While the main gases produced by your auto are usually relatively harmless like carbon dioxide and water vapor, your vehicle also produces toxic emissions like hydrocarbons, carbon monoxide and nitrogen oxides.

Auto Maintenance

Also referred to as car maintenance or vehicle maintenance;

Auto maintenance refers to the act of conducting regular and routine care for an auto. Auto maintenance includes checking and adding to your vehicle’s fluid levels, replacing fluids like coolant and oil, regular tune-ups and inspecting your auto for signs of damage.

Automatic Transmission Fluid

Shortened as ATF;

The automatic transmission fluid is a type of petroleum-based fluid (often red in color) that is designed to lubricate, clean and cool a vehicle that has an automatic transmission.

Dealing with a Faulty Car Alarm

2008-07-22T20:52:00.000-07:00

We all know the importance of having a reliable auto alarm. If you live in a less-than-safe neighborhood where the chances of vehicle theft is just as high as the chances of conception when a condom is reused (which is pretty high, mind you!), then I can understand why you’d want to keep your hyperactive alarm working at all times. But when your neighbor or your boss starts complaining about your noisy auto, then you really have to do something about it.

While a malfunctioning auto alarm can be extremely annoying, did you know that having an alarm that constantly goes off can easily drain your car battery as well? There are also some neighborhoods where you might get a ticket for disrupting the area’s peace and quiet. Some auto alarms are so sensitive that they actually go off with the slightest provocation—if provocation came in the form of a hapless pedestrian brushing against it or an adjacent car door being slammed. When it’s your auto alarm that’s malfunctioning, believe me, it can get pretty embarrassing.

The best way to fix a faulty car alarm is to first take the time to read through any paperwork regarding your specific auto alarm to find out what steps are recommended. Also, make sure your remote control device is functioning well. If your alarm refuses to turn off even after you press the off button several times, then your remote might have a problem. Some auto alarms light up each time you turn the alarm on or off. Others still, give off a beeping sound. If your alarm doesn’t exhibit any of these signs, then you might need to replace your battery. If the battery is fresh, then there’s a high probability that there’s something obstructing your remote’s radio wave transmission. Some auto alarms also require you to activate or deactivate your alarm from a specific angle. Find out where the sensors are positioned inside your vehicle and try activating/deactivating your alarm pointing at these positions.

If you can find any helpful clues as to what’s wrong with your alarm from your documentation, then you need to take your auto alarm to the professionals—AKA the people who installed the alarm. Simply ask them to adjust the sensitivity of your alarm to avoid having it triggered by the smallest and simplest things.

If your neighbor refuses to shut his or her trap about your alarm, then you might want to consider disarming your alarm temporarily. But then again, if you don’t trust any of your neighbors, then another option is to find a safer parking space for your car—preferably where nothing will brush against it or no loud noise could set the sensitive alarm off.

Better Engine Performance with a Cold Air Intake

2008-07-21T20:22:00.000-07:00

More and more drivers are investing their hard-earned money to improve vehicle speed. While a number of drivers like installing spoilers on their vehicles (which is seriously not a good idea because spoilers reduce aerodynamics), a more effective way of increasing your engine’ s performance is by modifying your ride to include a cold air intake system.

Defining “Cold Air Intake”:

Cold Air Intake refers to a type of aftermarket auto system that replaces your vehicle’s OEM air intake to increase airflow into your engine. It comes in different sizes and colors meant to suit your finicky tastes and your auto’s specifications, of course.

How Does It Improve the Engine’s Performance?

It increases the engine’s performance (horsepower and torque) by supplying the engine system with more oxygen for better fuel combustion. It also lowers the temperature of the air going into the car for better engine performance. This type of air intake system is thought to increase a vehicle’s gas mileage.

How Does It Improve the Vehicle’s Appearance?

Another perk of having this type of modification for your ride is that it gives your vehicle a highly customized appearance. It sounds great too. Every time you rev your engine, the air going into the air intake creates an attractive, throaty noise that’s sure to garner attention from the other autos surrounding your vehicle. Cool deal, right?

So with this type of aftermarket auto system, you get to improve not just your engine’s performance, but also your auto’s appearance as well.

Where Do You Get This Product?

Surf the net and you’ll find so many different auto parts providers offering high quality cold air intakes at affordable prices. Just don’t go for the cheap ones, alright? Going for trusted brands will save you the misery of ending up with a faulty engine and pricey repairs.

Top Ten Ways to Earn Gas Money Without Actually Working (Part II)

2008-07-16T20:09:00.000-07:00

The following are other ways by which you can earn your gas money without putting in much effort (i.e. actually working).

#5: Gas-Up for Your Loved Ones and Use Their Gas Card to Cover your Expenses

The gas card (or gift card) is one of the most effective ways to save money on gas. But not having your own gas card shouldn’t stop you from reaping its benefits. If you know anyone who has a gas card and is willing to be duped...er… I mean is willing to let you take their beloved vehicles to the gas pump to fill-‘em-up, then you too can enjoy the perks of getting free gas. (Not free for the card holder, but mostly free for you) Just keep your car parked near the gas pump so you won’t have to lose precious fuel when bringing it in for some free gas.

#4: Get a Sugar Daddy or Mommy

Similar to tip #6, getting a sugar daddy or mommy may be frowned on by a lot of social circles (particularly the hoity-toity sort), but if it saves you a lot of money (not just on gas if you’re smart), then it can’t hurt in the long run. If anyone asks why you’re dating someone prehistoric then simply retort with a simple “I value what’s inside more than the exterior”… just leave out the part about valuing “what’s inside the wallet” the most. Nobody can faulty you for preferring someone so worldly (and filthy rich). If they be hatin’ that’s because they’re jealous of your monies.

#3: Doing Field Work? Trick Your Boss Into Shouldering Your Daily Expenses

If your boss is asking you to do field work for a few days, then he or she would most likely allow you to reimburse your expenses, especially if the work requires you to take your car for long trips outside the city.

Quick! Think of believable work-related errands that you don’t have to make…anything to make your boss think that you’ve been very busy the past few days. This should also explain why you had to fill your gas tank twice.

Try to sneak in food receipts from the previous week. Just make sure to blur out the dates. See if this trick will fly and try not to get caught, yeah?

#2: Look Constipated in the Workplace

If your work isn’t quota-based, then your boss would be too busy to notice a slacker within his team. Befriend all the tattletales to keep them from complaining to your boss about your intarweb-surfing habits. The following are some tips on how to look like a model employee when all you’re really doing is playing games and watching videos all day long.

Look Constipated: looking constipated in front of the computer ought to give everyone the impression that you’re ultra-stressed. Just don’t overdo it, lest the company nurse approach you and ask you if you’re okay. Frustrated grunting also works, but not too much or you’ll look like a teenage boy surfing for porn. Sigh once in a while to show everyone how focused you are, and keep your eyes on the screen.

If you’re using Firefox, learn Ctrl + W: Pressing keys control and w should close your Firefox window. A helpful trick if you notice your manager edging in to inspect what websites you’ve recently opened. Don’t forget to clear your viewing history once in a while to avoid getting caught.

Get in early and leave late: If your work ends at around 5, then leave the office at around 7. This should give the people the impression that you’re an extremely hard worker. It also allows you to surf the internet easily without anyone suspecting it. While you’re at it, check out the dating sites to pick out your sugar mommy or daddy.

#1: “Borrow” your Boyfriend’s or Girlfriend’s Car (Everyday)

While this may not put gas inside your tank, it does save what little gas is left inside your vehicle. If your boyfriend or girlfriend suspects you of leeching off of them, counter with: “is that what you think of our relationship? Don’t you appreciate the little things I do for you?” –instant guilt trip. Just don’t use this excuse too often, unless you want them to dump you. Being extra-sweet should be enough compensation for making them spend on gas.

NOTE: Post was made just for laughs ;)

Top Ten Ways to Earn Gas Money Without Actually Working (PART I)

2008-07-15T20:48:00.000-07:00

Let’s face it. The way things are going, it looks as if gas prices will continue to skyrocket for the next few years or the next millennium (but who’s counting?). Unless you want to venture into the dangerous world of commuting, where you’ll end up playing human-sardines with the rest of humankind, then you need to be practical. Either you go get work to earn gas money or you leave your scruples elsewhere and leech off other people’s earnings.

If you don’t want to do any hard work but you want to keep driving your auto, then here are some ways by which you can get a full-tank without spending a dollar. Choose the tactic/s that appeal to you best.

#10: Hound the Gas Station for Drops of Gas

Some gas drivers just love getting full tanks. The problem is that they almost-always fail to catch the last few drops clinging to the pump. They’ve already paid for it and left it there, so you’re technically not stealing if you drive behind them and empty out the final drops into your car. Granted, this is the slowest way to fill your tank, but I’m pretty sure that if you park your car in the gas station for days and hound every single driver making the trip to the pump, then you’re sure to get enough gas…eventually.

To earn the last few drops of gas, insert the nozzle into your gas tank and turn it upside down. Give it a few shakes and you have your drops of gas. Repeat around a thousand times to earn a full tank. Remember, park your car as close to the gas pump as possible without obstructing the line of tank-fillers.

#9: Offer to Gas-Up for Other People and Claim that Gas Prices are Higher than they Actually Are

Lazy boss? Lazy girlfriend or boyfriend? Lazy anyone-you-know who’s gullible enough to let you gas-up for them? Take advantage of doing this simple chore to earn yourself some gas money. Keep your auto parked in the gas station so you won’t have to waste gas driving there. Fill the tank and conveniently “forget” to get the receipt from the gas station. Add around $5-10 to the total amount of the full tank, and you get gas money. If the person’s extra-gullible, he or she might actually give you a little tip that you can add to your growing gas funds.

Remember, don’t exaggerate the gas prices too much, unless you want the person you’re fooling to catch on.

#8: Stay a Bum and Bug Your Parents About Post-College or Post-High School Allowance

Fresh out of college? Are your parents bugging you to get a job? If the puppy-dog eyes no longer work, then it’s time to be as annoying as you can be. Bug your parents for gas money and post-school allowance and claim that you need to drive to business interviews. Dress to impress to prevent your folks from catching on, even if the only place you’ll be driving to is the local drive-thru.

To make it even more believable, stay out for a few hours, return with a dejected look and a believable sigh. Looking depressed ought to make your parents pity you more, and if they’re busy folks, then they’ll probably offer you a few bucks to show their love.

#7: Stay a Student Forever

If you’ve got nice parents, then you may not want to trick them using tip #8. Your best alternative is to stay a student…forever! Most parents are willing to help shoulder their son’s or daughter’s expenses when in grad school. Let them shoulder your gas money and shower you with love and (monetarial) support.

If, however, your parents want you to get a job while you’re in law school or something, you might want to use the pity-tactic by pretending to be über busy and super-stressed all the time. They’ll feel guilty for making you work and end up paying not just for your gas but for your rent as well.

#6: Marry Rich or Trade Up (Go Dig, Gold Digger)

Your stalker may be pretty ugly or old and downright weird, but if he or she is gifted in the financial department (millionaire and above, please), then you may want to consider letting them pamper you the way they want to—meaning get them to pay for your gas and all your other expenses. If they want to marry you, all the better—this means you’re set for life. Just don’t sign any legal documents, unless we’re talking marriage certificate, or even better, a will that makes you sole beneficiary of all their assets.

Remember, PRE-NUP = BAD.

TRIVIA: What is the World’s Oldest Running Car?

2008-07-14T19:59:00.001-07:00

Answer: As of August 2007, the oldest running automobile was the 124 year-old, four-wheeled, De Dion-Bouton et Trépardoux, better known as “La Marquise”. The steam-powered car was originally built especially for the French Count De Dion. De Dion was known to be one of the founders of De Dion-Bouton & Trépardoux, a French automaker. This 1884 auto model was named after the mother of the Count of Dion, Albert, and was created as a prototype for succeeding quadricycles.

The La Marquise was driven by the Count of Dion in an exhibition in 1887. The exhibition has since been known as the first car race, although as expected, the La Marquise was the only auto that actually showed up. It made a 20-or-so-mile round trip from Paris to Versailles, running at an average speed of just about 26 miles per hour. In 1888, according to Gooding, the car won its first race. It ran against another De Dion-Bouton steam-powered automobile, this time, a three-wheeler.

How did the La Marquise Run?
Strangely enough, the La Marquise was fueled by an assortment of paper, wood and coal. It usually took the driver around 30 to 40 minutes just to work up the right amount of steam required to drive this auto. The top-speed was a then-staggering 38 miles per hour.

Now, if you drove that slow in the freeway, expect to get flipped off and shouted at by angry drivers. But for a 124 year-old auto, definitely not a bad performance.

As for its wheels, the La Marquise’s wheels were predominantly metal, with thin tires made of complete rubber wrapping itself around the metal frames. These days, this would be considered unsafe, but if you owned an over-a-century-old auto, I hardly doubt you’d want to ride it everyday, right? In short, these days, this auto is more “for show” than “for racing”.

When Was It Last Driven Publicly?
So far, the last public race it participated on was the 1996 “London to Brighton Veteran Car Run,” where the auto wore the number “0” for being the oldest car in the race.

How Much Is It Worth Today?
Last I heard, the auto was sold in 2007 at the Pebble Beach Concours d’Elegance for a whopping US$3,520,000! Whoever bought this car must have been quite loaded. With this price, you can get yourself two high performance luxury convertibles already. But a certain amount of pride and prestige definitely comes with owning the longest-running automobile in the world, right?

What About the Other Cars that Claim to be the First Automobile in Existence?
Let’s be clear on this. The La Marquise is the longest-running automobile out there. It’s not gasoline-powered, but it does pre-date the world’s oldest gas-powered vehicles. It came around a year prior to when Karl Benz and Gottlieb Daimler crafted their gasoline-powered automobiles (these automakers worked separately from each other). It also came around 12 years before Henry Ford presented his first car.

About the Automaker: De Dion-Bouton

The French railcar and automobile manufacturer De Dion-Bouton (also known as De Dion-Bouton & Trépardoux) began its operations in 1883 and was active until 1932. It was founded by Geroges Bouton, his brother-in-law Charles Trépardoux and Comte Albert de Dion.

The auto company was formed after Comte De Dion saw a toy locomotive in a random store window in 1881. He asked the toymakers how the toy locomotive was made to build another model. Trépardoux and Bouton were then starving on their meager salaries creating scientific toys for a shop located in Léon. Although Trépardoux had long wanted to create a steam car, he didn’t have the funds for it. Luckily, De Dion did have the money to fund this project and the interest on steam-powered locomotives, and the three agreed to form their company in Paris. This created the De Dion-Bouton auto company that became world-renowned for their vehicles’ durability, reliability and excellent performance.

Top Ten Things You Should Never Do While Driving

2008-07-09T20:52:00.000-07:00

Everyday I spend about four hours weaving in and out of traffic running errands, going to work, going home from work and visiting friends and family. Now, you won’t believe the crazy antics I’ve seen or heard people do while driving. Usually it’s none of my business when the car is parked—not even if it’s rocking—but if we’re on the freeway together or even moving at a snail-like pace in the city, especially if the person’s auto is devoid of any tint whatsoever, I make it my business to honk my horn in case of an impending accident. So what are the dangerous things people shouldn’t do while driving? Read on to find out.

Dangerous Antic #10: Playing Electronic Games

While the brick game and the Nintendo trend may no longer be as catchy as it used to be, more and more pocket-able electronic games are coming out on the market. Case and point: the PSP. While I’d love to own one of these cool gadgets, I seriously can’t stand being around a driver who’s reckless enough to swerve in and out of traffic while trying to win a ball game on his high-tech gadget.

Something else that’s totally annoying? Being stuck behind a driver who can’t see that the green light means go because he’s too busy getting his e-game on. Not cool!

Dangerous Antic #9: Daydreaming

Sometimes letting your imagination run wild while you’re stuck in heavy traffic is a good thing. I complete most of my grocery lists (in my head, mind you) and other checklists (sometimes I jot down notes) when my auto isn’t moving. Keeping your mind on the go when your ride isn’t can help keep you awake, especially after working the whole day. You also prevent yourself from getting bored, especially when your car’s radio is broken or there are no good tunes playing.

It becomes disastrous when you daydream too much only to realize that the driver behind you has overtaken your vehicle and is flipping you off. While it may not be completely dangerous (except when you suddenly stop in the middle of a busy intersection and get T-boned by some hotshot-wannabe-auto racer), it’s pretty embarrassing, and downright foolish.

So what’s the moral lesson behind this semi-dangerous antic? Don’t get carried away to la-la land while driving. FOCUS.

Dangerous Antic #8: Checking Someone Out

When I was just 14, my cousin was asked to drop me off at a friend’s house. He decided to take the long route which took us smack in the middle of the city where bikini-clad babes (it was summer) were parading their toned bodies like it was Christmas (his words—edited to be more appropriate—not mine). A head-turner in a sizzling red bikini top and barely-there mini walked by and turned my cousin’s head to follow her shapely legs--literally. We ended up bumping into the parked car in front of us.

Granted, it was a low-speed collision that merely dented the auto in front of us, my cousin learned his lesson.

So what did we learn from this dangerous antic? Either park your car and then ogle, or ogle discreetly while minding the road ahead of you. Or if you have a significant other, don’t ogle at all.

Dangerous Antic #7: Catching a Few Winks

I actually have all the sympathy (I can muster) for people who are bone-tired from work and have to drive long distances just to get home. In my previous job, a corporate one, I’ve gone two days without sleep while trying to finish a deadline for my boss (which I totally didn’t get credit for). On your way home, it becomes awfully tempting to catch a quick nap, especially when heavy traffic surrounds you—but this is a big NO-NO.

Catching a nap while driving is extremely dangerous. It doesn’t matter if you’re stuck in dense and heavy traffic, you need to focus when there are other vehicles surrounding you. If you need to, pull over somewhere safe and catch a 5 minute nap. Or better yet, head to a nearby motel and catch some well-deserved sleep.

Dangerous Antic #6: Smoking or Taking Illegal Substances... (AKA POT)

I’ve actually never seen anyone smoking pot while driving, although when I was younger, I did pass by a group of guys in a car that was emitting clouds of thick, white smoke from the interior. They were driving extremely slow with an empty stretch of road ahead. I didn’t see anyone puffing, but I can only assume that the driver and his buddies were taking a trip that was seriously out of this world.

If you don’t want to get into an accident, then please don’t take anything hallucinogenic, illegal or something that would alter your current frame of mind. Stay focused while driving. By being a conscientious driver, the life you save might just ultimately be yours.

Dangerous Antic #5: Getting Kinky With Your Significant Other

While getting frisky with your S/O (significant other) is a normal part of any healthy relationship, full-out going down on your partner while he or she is driving can have extremely dangerous consequences. Naturally, when you’re being pleasured the right way, you tend to lose not only the ability to speak coherently but also the focus you need to stay in command of your vehicle. (if there’s a pun it was unintentional).

Avoid crashing into a hapless tree or getting pulled over by a police officer (oh the embarrassment!) by either pulling over and not getting caught or taking your frisky attitude and getting the act done behind closed doors (a motel, your home or simply put, where it’s supposed to happen).

Dangerous Antic #4: Reading

Reading is good for your soul. I’m all for reading—it’s one of my favorite pastimes. But seriously! Reading while driving? You’re not only risking your life by failing to focus on the current task at hand, you’re also risking your eyesight buddy. A few months ago, my car was in the shop and I decided to take a cab to work. During my long commute, we encountered heavy traffic some ways off from my office building. To my surprise, the cab driver whipped out a newspaper and started not just reading but answering the crossword puzzle. I had to tell him to “go” three times before he realized that the other drivers behind us were honking their horns at us.

Avoid the embarrassment and the possibility of an accident by reading somewhere else.

Dangerous Antic #3: Drinking Anything Alcoholic

You already know why drinking and driving is considered extremely stupid and the same goes for drinking WHILE driving. I actually believe that drinking beer, whiskey or anything alcoholic while you’re driving is actually more foolish than getting drunk before getting behind the wheel. (Let’s get this straight, I’m totally against drinking and driving and drinking while driving).

When you drink while you drive, you not only lose the use of one arm (with one grasping the bottle and the other turning the wheel), you also become more and more intoxicated with every gulp. Avoid an accident and getting arrested for DUI, don’t drink while driving.

Dangerous Antic #2: Applying Makeup

Being a woman, I think the notion that all women drivers are bad drivers is totally unfair. But if women continue putting on their makeup as they maneuver their autos, then it certainly won’t help change the world’s current opinion of women drivers. Yes, I’ve applied lipstick while driving (which was foolish and dangerous and it also left a red streak on my front teeth), but I’ve only done it once and I don’t intend on repeating this mistake again.

The sad thing is that I often see a lot of women drivers applying mascara and full makeup on their faces while turning the wheel or moving through the freeway. This is extremely dangerous. You not only run the risk of crashing into another car, you can also poke your eye out if you continue this practice. So please, apply makeup at home, in the office or in the office parking lot if you really don’t have the time to stay locked in the loo for a few minutes.

Dangerous Antic #1: Using Your Mobile

There are a number of states that have actually banned the use of mobile phones while driving. Every year, thousands of people encounter auto accidents simply because they were too busy texting, sending SMS or MMS messages or talking on the phone instead of focusing on getting to their destination of choice safely.

As with makeup application, holding your mobile and talking or texting while driving renders one of your hands useless when driving. It also causes you to lose focus, which is seriously one of the most important things you need to do while driving.

So, to prevent an accident or getting arrested: don’t use your mobile phone while driving.

How To Deal with an Overheating Vehicle: Answering the What’s

2008-07-08T20:37:00.001-07:00

What is Auto Overheating?

Overheating is one of the most common auto problems experienced by vehicle owners around the world. As you can already surmise from its name, auto overheating refers to the instance wherein the radiator boils over like a giant kettle, releasing huge clouds of billowing white steamy smoke. If you’ve never experienced having an overheating vehicle, then you’ve probably seen drivers pulled over on the side of the roads, frustrated over the large clouds of smoke coming from under their vehicle hoods—that’s overheating.

What are the Signs of Overheating?

Stating the obvious: billowing white smoke escaping from under the hood. If that’s not the most obvious sign of an overheating vehicle, I don’t know what is.

Right before your vehicle starts smoking, you’ll notice how the temperature gauge on your auto’s dashboard begins to creep higher and higher until it reaches the critical operating temperature that causes the smoke.

What Should You Do When Your Auto Overheats?

Step #1: Pull Over ASAP. The moment you spot the rising temperature gauge on the dashboard, turn on those hazard lights and pull over somewhere safe—like the freeway’s emergency lane.

Step #2: Pop your Auto Hood and Wait for a Few Minutes. If you touch any of the exposed surfaces under your auto hood while it’s bubbling over, you will suffer really bad burns. So wait for you and your car to cool down a few degrees first.

Step #3: Check your Water-Coolant Levels. You can do this by locating the coolant overflow tank (once again, whip out your owner’s manual and locate your coolant overflow tank, or slosh tank or coolant reservoir), and if it’s empty fill it to its proper level with plain water. Don’t add coolant just yet.

Step #4: Buy More Water in Case you’ll Need to Refill the Tank on Your Way Home or to a Nearby Garage. If you’re driving a short distance, then you probably won’t need to add more water, but better safe than sorry, right?

Step #5: Continue Checking your Coolant Tank and Filling it with Water as your Auto’s Temperature Returns to Normal. Before you start driving, try to get your auto’s temperature back to normal (or as close to normal as possible). If your auto’s temperature remains high, then proceed to step #6, otherwise you’re off to step #7.

Step #6: If your Auto Temperatures Remain High Even after Adding Water to your Coolant Tank, then Stop Driving and Call for Help. Once again, your main priority should be getting home in one piece, something that’s hard to do if your car overheats unexpectedly and you end up in an awful car accident. You’ll also need to have your vehicle checked by a professional mechanic for severe problems in your auto’s cooling system.

Step #7: Once your Vehicle’s Temperature Levels are Back to Normal, Refill your Auto’s Coolant Overflow Tank with the Correct Amount of Water-Coolant Mixture. Check your owner’s manual to find out the specified ratio of water and coolant required by your auto. Most vehicles require a 50:50 water-coolant mixture.

What are the Causes Behind Auto Overheating?

Overheating can be caused by a number of different factors. The following are some of the most common reasons behind vehicle overheating.

Stuck or Broken Thermostat.

Bad Coolant Circulation Caused by a Faulty Water Pump. Check your water pump for signs of blockage, leakage or any other type of damage.

Empty Radiator. Forgot to add water-coolant mixture to your car before a long trip? This could be the reason behind your auto problem.

Leakage. If you’ve recently added water-coolant mixture to your car, but you frequently find it empty after an episode of overheating, then you probably have leaking hoses. Replace these hoses as soon as possible.

Loose or Damaged Hoses. Drive belts surrounding your water pump may come loose or may end up damaged after years of use. Even the smallest slippage in this area could cause overheating. Check and replace accordingly.

Check your Mixture. You might have the wrong antifreeze-to-water ratio. If you’ve been lean on the anti-freeze, then make sure you get the right levels next time. Keep in mind that too little antifreeze in your mixture can result to overheating.

Inspect your Radiator Cap. Damage can throw the radiator cap pressure into loops. If the pressure’s too low, then your auto’s boil temperature also lowers, causing your vehicle to overheat faster. If you’re dealing with a damaged radiator cap, then replace this auto part immediately to avoid more overheating incidents.

What Does “Flooding the Engine” Mean and How Can You Avoid It?

2008-07-07T19:44:00.000-07:00

What is a Flooded Engine?

A flooded engine refers to a condition wherein too much fuel enters the engine cylinders making the simple act of starting your car extremely difficult or darn near impossible.

Most flooded engines are internal combustion engines. Flooding the engine happens when your car’s engine is fed too high an amount of air-to-fuel mixture, making it difficult for your spark plugs to ignite the compressed aerosol gasoline found on your engine cylinders. Before the combustion process can commence, it requires your spark plugs to ignite the gas on your engine cylinders, something that’s difficult to do if there’s too much fuel inside your cylinders. To start your engine, you’ll need to clear out the rich fuel-air mixture found inside your cylinders.

Carbureted Autos vs. Fuel-Injected Engines:

If you’re driving a car with a carburetor, then this problem could be pretty common for you. If, however, your auto comes equipped with a fuel-injected engine, then rest assured that your vehicle is immune from this problem so long as you’re operating within your auto’s normal tolerances.

What Causes a Flooded Engine?

Engine flooding usually occurs when a driver is starting his or her auto. When starting your car, it’s normal for you to step on your gas pedal or depress the accelerator a bit to send a bit of fuel into the engine to start the combustion process. You flood the engine when you step on the gas pedal repeatedly for a long time. When this happens, too much fuel enters into your carburetor resulting in flooding.

*Note: Contrary to popular belief, you don’t really “flood the engine” you flood your carburetor when you engage in this practice.

Another possible reason behind a flooded engine (or carburetor) is hot-starting. Starting your car during high temperatures can result to the evaporation of the fuel inside your carburetor float chamber. The fuel enters into the inlet manifold, which results in your air-to-fuel mixture exceeding your car’s upper explosive limit.

When is it Dangerous to Flood Your Engine?

Engine flooding becomes severe when too much liquid fuel enters into your engine’s combustion chamber. This lessens the dead volume found in your combustion chamber. It also puts a heavier load on your starter motor, making it really difficult or even impossible for your engine to turn. Engine damage can also result from this incident due to the dilution of the petrol with your lubricating oil and the excessive compression inside your combustion chamber.

How Can You Prevent Your Engine From Flooding?

When starting your car, don’t depress on your accelerator repeatedly. This is a common mistake that first-time drivers tend to make.

What Should You Do When Your Engine Becomes Flooded?

The best solution is often the simplest remedy available to you: waiting. Prop up your hood and give your vehicle some time to get rid off the excess mixture. Start your car after a few minutes, and this time exercise caution when it comes to how many times you depress on your gas pedal.

What Should You Do When this Tip Doesn’t Work?

If your car still won’t start after you’ve given it fifteen minutes to rest, then there’s a high probability that you’ll need to dry up the excess fuel yourself. You will have to open your auto’s carburetor, so take out your owner’s manual from your glove compartment and start locating those essential auto components under your vehicle’s hood.

You may need to use ether-based spray or WD-40 for this quick repair job, so please don’t smoke around these highly flammable products. (By the way, it’s a dumb idea to conduct this auto remedy when you’re around an open flame.) Also, for safety reasons turn off your engine or don’t leave your auto idling when you open your auto’s hood and start drying the excess fuel. See the really clever math-like formula listed below:

Fuel + Highly Flammable Products (WD-40 and Ether Spray included) + Running Engine +Open Fire = Disaster

Staring at the equation above makes me feel like a math genius. I should have been a mathematician, except numbers and equations all look the same to me. *scratches head*

Top Ten Tips on How to Avoid an Auto Accident

2008-07-02T21:12:00.000-07:00

A few hours ago, I encountered an interesting website called car-accidents.com. It featured pictures of fatal accidents and presented highly alarming statistics. According to the website, in the United States alone, a person dies of a car accident every 13 minutes. Every day, 115 people perish due to vehicle accidents and each year, approximately 1.2 million people are killed worldwide because of auto-related incidents.

If those figures aren’t startling enough, the website states that according to the statistics presented by the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration, there is an estimated 43,000 deaths in the U.S. caused by fatal car accidents every year and that around 40% of these accidents are alcohol-related. Apart from the 43,000 people that are killed, there are also 2.9 million more that are injured each year.

While I am a strong believer of the saying: “it takes two to tango”, sometimes it really just takes one drunk party to collide with another unsuspecting vehicle. So how can you avoid getting into auto accidents? Read on to find out the top ten tips on how you can avoid getting into a car accident.

Tip #1: If you’ve been drinking, don’t go driving. If you’re no longer in your teens, like yours truly, then you’ve probably been warned by your parents or some other guardian that you’re not supposed to drink and drive. There’s a logical reason behind this, and it’s not just because you might end up getting lost because you forgot your address, it’s because drinking worsens your ability to focus on driving, it also increases the risk of falling asleep while you’re behind the wheel.

So if you’re planning on getting absolutely smashed in a party, then make sure you have a designated driver (who shouldn’t be drinking at all) who can take you home easily. If you’re hosting a party in your home, then be responsible enough to stop any bumbling and stumbling, drunken guests from exiting your house and getting behind the wheel.

Correlatively, if you’re exceptionally tired, even if you haven’t been drinking, then it’s best to not drive at all. Driving at night impedes your visibility, and if you’re in danger of falling asleep then you can’t drive responsibly. Be a responsible and reliable driver. For pete’s sake, don’t drink and drive.

Tip #2: Reign in your road rage. Some drivers can be exceptionally annoying. They honk their horns at you because they think you’re going too slow. Some are even foolish enough to challenge you to racing. While giving out obscene gestures (aka, the finger) and cursing loudly at the next driver is considered bad manners, it’s even worse if you actually let your rage take over and push the other driver off of his or her lane. Reign in that road rage and let the other foolish and headstrong driver have his or her accident somewhere else.

Tip #3: Exercise vehicle maintenance. Remember your owner’s manual? That small booklet can give you tips on how to keep your auto in tiptop shape. You can be the world’s safest driver, but with an unsteady and unpredictable ride that’s in extremely poor condition, you’ll have difficulties controlling the vehicle and thereby increasing your chances of encountering an accident because of this. Care for your car and make sure your brakes and the rest of your auto’s many systems are in great working order.

Tip #4: Scan near, scan far and check your surroundings for pedestrians. While you do need to keep an eye on the vehicle right in front of you, it’s also best to keep watch of the rest of the vehicles surrounding your car. Scan near for immediate dangers and scan far to check for road obstructions or other drivers hastily approaching your car.

Other drivers and road obstructions are not the only dangers that you might accidentally run into. Also scan your surroundings for pets, children and pedestrians who are crossing the road. Follow speed limits especially those surrounding schools and residential areas. If you’re encountering a crowded intersection, then proceed slowly to avoid running over some hapless pedestrian.

Tip #5: Give yourself enough space to maneuver freely and don’t keep your auto in the fast lane. Road rage and impatience are two of your biggest enemies when driving. While you may be tempted to maneuver your car hastily to the left lane to join the rest of the speeding autos there, statistics indicate that the safest lanes on the freeway are the right and center lanes. These lanes allow you enough space to maneuver your auto easily and to avoid colliding with other reckless drivers.

Tip #6: Avoid tailgating. I must admit, it’s awfully tempting to tailgate when you’re stuck in heavy traffic, but there’s a reason why the law asks you to leave space between you and the auto in front of you. When you’re on the freeway especially, you’ll never know when the car in front of you is going to slow down or hit the brakes completely. Don’t tailgate unless you want to end up bumping into the auto directly in front of you.

Tip #7: Try to eliminate those blind spots. Auto mirrors are safety features installed in your vehicle designed to eliminate your blind spots. Blind spots refer to the areas that you can’t see behind or beside your auto. But even with a multitude of auto mirrors, you can’t completely eliminate all of your vehicle’s blind spots, which is why you need to familiarize yourself with these areas and you need to learn to drive more carefully to prevent encountering auto accidents with other cars situated within your vehicles blind spots.

It’s the same thing with the blind spots of the other automobiles surrounding you. Larger vehicles tend to have bigger blind spots. Keep in mind that when sandwiched between two trucks or situated particularly close to a truck that just because you can see them, it doesn’t necessarily follow that they can see you. If they move too close, don’t be afraid to honk your horns.

Tip #8: Focus and be on the lookout for traffic changes. It’s a common enough mistake that we all make sometimes. You’re stuck in heavy traffic and you decide to make a quick phone call or reapply your makeup, thinking traffic’s not going to change within the next few seconds—wrong! This could be a fatal mistake. Anticipate traffic changes and do focus on your driving to prevent any vehicle crashes.

Tip #9 Use your auto lights! If you’re going to be pulling over, slowing down or turning, signal to the other drivers around you by using your hazards, turn signal lights and parking lights. This would give them enough time to either slow down or avoid colliding with your auto.

Tip #10: Lastly, don’t test your auto’s limits. If you’re a racing enthusiast like me, then there’s a chance that you’ve tried turning your auto into a racecar by pushing your engine and brakes to their limits. This practice could damage your braking system and your engine, and you surely wouldn’t want your brake system to falter when you’re about to hit another vehicle, right? Don’t push your car beyond its limits to keep it running at its best.

Top Ten Ways to Rent a Car

2008-07-01T21:28:00.000-07:00

Planning on heading out of town or out of the country? Whether you’re going domestic or international, if you’re planning on staying in an unfamiliar place for over a week, then renting a car is one of the best ways to get around town. In the last few decades, the car rental industry has grown significantly with more and more car rental agencies opening in over a hundred countries worldwide.

Another excellent reason why you may want to rent a vehicle somewhere in your own neighborhood is because you’re planning a cross-country road trip or you need a truck to haul your belongings across town. Whatever your reason for renting a vehicle may be, do take the time to read through these tips to find out the best ways to save money on car rentals.

Tip #1: Hit the World Wide Web for Car Rental Information: While the vast Information Superhighway may be loaded with car rental tips, the main reason why I’m asking you to hit the World Wide Web is so that you can check out the wonderful car rental deals you’ll find online. There are a lot of car rental agencies that have their own websites up for your browsing pleasure. Check out more than one car rental agency online and compare services and prices. Keep in mind that rates will differ from company to company depending on the rental agency’s location and the type of automobile you’re planning on using. Depending on your allotted budget, the location of the place you’re visiting and your schedule, choose the best car rental deal for you.

Tip #2: If you’re staying over a week, rent weekly instead of daily: Renting the vehicle weekly instead of daily will save you more money in the long run. Renting the car during weekdays is also slightly more expensive than renting it on weekends, if you’re going for the day-by-day approach. Trust me when I tell you that renting a car the entire week will save you at least 10% of what you’d pay if you rented the car everyday.

Tip #3: Try to rent the auto during the weekends: We’ve already covered renting weekly versus renting daily, so now it’s on to weekends versus weekdays. Renting your car on the weekend will definitely save you money. Car rentals on the weekends are generally cheaper than renting on a weekday. Don’t ask me why.

Tip #4: Read through the insurance policies being offered: Most car rental agencies will offer you two types of waivers: the CDW or the Collision Damage Wavier and the LDW or the Loss Damage Waiver. The CDW benefits you, as it offers you protection in case of a collision, while the LDW benefits the company since it covers any losses the car rental agency may incur in the event of a collision. While both of these waivers are highly advisable, do check your personal insurance coverage to avoid paying for coverage that you already have. Read the fine print before signing anything.

Tip #5: Double-take before you agree to prepaid gas: When renting a car, most auto rental agencies will offer you two options when it comes to gas: it’s either you can pay for a full tank in advance and you can return the auto with an empty tank or you can choose to refuel the tank right before you return it to the agency. While paying in advance can save you a bit of time and money, especially if you’re pressed for time and don’t have the spare minutes to head to a gas tank and refuel, if you’re not going to be using the entire tank of gas then you might just end up paying for more than what you’re supposed to. Cut your losses by thinking this situation over before agreeing automatically to prepaid gas.

Tip #6: Book as early as possible: Booking early saves you from the hassle of ending up with ridiculously high rates—which you’ll have to agree to, unless you plan on traveling to and from the city by foot during your entire vacation or stay. The earlier you book, the less the chances that you’ll end up with a crummy car and high rates to boot.

Tip #7: Figure out what type of auto you need before agreeing to any upgrades: Most rental car agencies will offer you free upgrades to drive around a bigger vehicle—this is because most travelers prefer compact automobiles. Before agreeing to the upgrade, determine first if you really need a larger auto for your travels. While the upgrade may be free, larger autos tend to burn more gas, meaning you may not pay more at the car rental agency but you’ll surely fork over more cash at the gas station. Think about it.

Tip #8: Bringing your baby? Don’t forget his/her child safety seat: While bringing a child safety seat may mean traveling with more bulk, most rental agencies tend to charge about $10 per day for child safety seats. Do the math. If a week-long stay means paying around $70 for the small seat, and you paid $140 for your child safety seat back home, then should you bring your own child safety seat or are you willing to fork over an additional $70?

If you’re still undecided about this matter, then another great option is to rent a minivan instead of a compact auto. A number of minivans contain integrated child safety seats—meaning no need to rent a seat for your infant or toddler. Call in advance to find out your available options before making any decisions.

Tip #9: Avoid airport pickups: Did you know that the simple act of picking up a rental car in the airport is actually more expensive than heading to the agency yourself? Consider the taxes and the fees you’ll need to pay for just to have your auto waiting for you in the airport. Ask yourself: is the price worth this small convenience?

Tip #10: Look for discounts, if necessary, join the club. There are some companies with clubs that offer you discounts on car rentals and benefits on airline miles. If you rent cars frequently then this could be an excellent way to save money in the future.

What Can You Find in an Owner’s Manual And Why Should You Read It?

2008-06-30T21:13:00.000-07:00

The first few weeks after getting my brand new auto, I kept taking my car for test drives. If you’re a new driver, then this is probably going to be your newfound hobby for a while—exploring your strengths and weaknesses as a driver, and determining the capabilities of your new “baby”—this includes driving around for hours at a time just cruisin’ around the city streets. Well, come to think of it, with the current problem with fuel prices (with them skyrocketing, and our bank accounts depleting), you may want to check for your vehicle’s overall condition right in the comforts of your own home.

You can do this by going through your owner’s manual—you know, the booklet the dealer gave you right after you made your purchase. If you still have no clue as to what manual I’m referring to, you might want to check your glove compartment—that’s where most drivers tend to stash this booklet away until the time they decide to resell or trade in their autos.

I know, you’re probably not the least bit enthusiastic about sitting down and actually reading your owner’s manual, but there are a lot of things that you can learn from this information-packed booklet. While you may have little or no problems with your auto after using it for a month or so, believe me when I tell you that small auto symptoms will appear the longer you use your car, and if not acted on immediately, these symptoms turn into full-blown problems. Save yourself from the major headache and the financial woes by getting to know your vehicle’s numerous components and learning to spot small auto problems before they turn your vehicle into a complete accident magnet. That being said, what can you find inside a good owner’s manual?

Well, if you’ve been provided with a good owners manual then it should contain the following information:

Your Auto’s Warranty Coverage and Information: It’s always best to start reviewing this as soon as you get your auto. This way you can determine if you need added protection for you and your auto or if the current coverage you have is good enough. (Don’t wait for an accident to get to know your auto’s specifics)

Details Regarding Your Auto: Standard and Special Features Included: Do you know everything there is to know about your vehicle? Find out all the features included in your vehicle’s model to make the most out of what you have—after all, you paid for it.

Maintenance Tips and Techniques: I keep saying this because I can’t seem to stress this enough: your vehicle won’t be running perfectly forever. I actually learned this the hard way when my vehicle’s battery first gave out. Use the tips and recommendations included in your owner’s manual. It should show you how frequently you need to replace or refill certain auto parts and the right types of oil, antifreeze and other mixtures your auto needs.

Heed the Warnings! Auto manuals are usually filled with warnings like “use model --- for your replacement ---, not this type ---“. These warnings are there for a reason. Using the wrong replacement parts will not only affect your auto’s performance, it could also lead to safety issues.

The Right Replacement Parts: Owner’s manuals contain the different part numbers of the most frequently-changed components in a vehicle: like the bulbs, fuses, tires and headlights. These booklets contain info on the right type of auto parts needed by your vehicle should you choose to replace these auto parts yourself.

Blank Pages You Can Fill Out on Maintenance and Service Information: this statement is pretty much self-explanatory, so I’m just going to remind you to use the spaces to record when you last changed your oil, had a tune-up, etc. This should serve as a reminder as to when you need to have an oil change or any other type of maintenance check.

YOUR AUTO MANUAL AS A GUIDE

After carefully reviewing your owner’s manual, you’re probably asking yourself “so, what now?”. Well, the next logical step is to use the booklet as your guide in getting to know your vehicle’s numerous components. In short, don’t be afraid to take a look under your vehicle’s hood.

A number of today’s manuals actually contain diagrams designed to help the reader identify the different parts found under the vehicle’s hood, like the engine, carburetor, radiator, air filter and oil stick. These manuals can also provide you with step-by-step information on how you can check your ATF or automatic transmission fluid and brake fluid levels.

After scrutinizing the contents under your auto’s hood, check your vehicle’s tires, trunk and dashboard to find out more about the different auto systems installed in your vehicle. For example, the exhaust system is usually found on the rear portion of your auto, under the vehicle’s body. It’s the auto system that’s connected to your vehicle’s tailpipe and is responsible for releasing your vehicle’s emissions and directing it away from your car’s cabin.

You don’t have to memorize everything written in your manual at one go. Take it one day at a time, and get to know your vehicle and its different parts thoroughly to prevent complete vehicle breakdown brought by poor auto maintenance.

WHEN’S THE BEST TIME TO USE YOUR OWNER’S MANUAL?

There’s no better time than now (or as soon as possible). The longer you delay your maintenance checks the higher the chance that you’ll have to replace more auto parts and conduct heavier repairs on damaged vehicle components.

WHY YOU NEED TO FIND ALTERNATIVE BUT COMPATIBLE REPLACEMENT PARTS:

While your auto manual may specify parts manufacturers when it comes to headlight replacement parts etc., it also provides you with a more cost-effective alternative: going to a parts provider or auto parts shop with the exact part numbers you need. Sometimes even the simplest act of choosing a different parts manufacturer for your replacement auto component can mean the difference between paying an exorbitant amount and saving more than 50% of what you expected to pay for. Think about it.

Tips on Removing Carpet Stains

2008-06-25T18:57:00.001-07:00

We’ve all experienced eating inside the car. When you first buy your brand new vehicle, you might find the idea of eating inside it as rather appalling. We all know how tough it is to remove stains. But whether it’s loading kids inside your car for a long trip (with them eating and drinking throughout the entire trip), or having a drunk friend unload everything that’s nasty on your car upholstery and carpeting, in a matter of months, you’ll have to deal with carpet stains if you want to keep your vehicle looking and more importantly, smelling like brand new. Gasoline stains and muddy shoes can also leave ghastly imprints on your vehicle’s carpeting. While this can be avoided by having auto floor mats placed over your vehicle’s carpet, you’ll also have to clean out those mats after a month or two of use.

What About your Household Carpet Cleaning Solutions and Car Wash Shampooing?

Here’s the good thing: most household carpet cleaning components can work extremely well with your car’s carpet. Now, the bad news is that because most auto carpets have built-in metal units, liquid carpet-cleaners can easily seep in and destroy your vehicle’s floors. Aside from having to deal with rust spots making prominent imprints on your carpeting, you might just end up with a hole in your floorboards if you don’t address these seemingly “minor” concerns as quickly as possible. Even auto wash shampooing can also help corrode the metal found under your vehicle’s carpeting. So instead of leaving your carpet in and cleaning it out with liquid cleaners, it’s always best to exercise a bit of precaution by removing your car seats and your auto carpets and cleaning them outside your vehicle. Wait for these auto accessories to dry completely before putting them back in your car. I know, I know. This is an extremely time-consuming task, but let me assure you that it’s all worth it in the end.

For Small Stains, Is it Better to Exercise Spot Cleaning?

Yes you can! Now, consider yourself lucky if you’re dealing with just a few small stains. You don’t need to go to the extent of removing your entire carpeting and auto seats to clean everything thoroughly. Exercising excellent spot-cleaning will be enough to keep your vehicle’s interior spic and span. You can even use spray-on carpet cleaners for the job. But remember, the sooner you take out these stains the better. If you allow these “small” stains to settle in for a few days or weeks, it can take herculean efforts just to remove these stains.

On Choosing Carpet Cleaners:

When choosing carpet cleaners, make sure the product that you intend to use on your auto carpets won’t damage its fibers or its color. The best way to find out if you have the right carpet cleaner is to use it on a very small portion of your car first and to check if it does damage to your carpeting. Conduct this small experiment on hardly-noticeable areas inside your vehicle like under your auto floor mat or under your vehicle’s seats.

Keep in mind that before you clean out your carpets, you’ll need to run your vacuum cleaner over the carpets prior to the application of the stain remover. Vacuuming your carpets before cleaning them out can help remove debris or hardened stains, thereby making it easier for you to remove or spot-remove stains.

Most carpet cleaners come with instructions on how you can remove stains easily. This may require you to use a hard brush or even a scraping tool to remove hardened residues that may get in the way of your cleaning efforts. Follow the carpet-cleaning instructions to a tee.

Once you’ve gotten rid of the hardened stains, you can now proceed to use your spray-on cleaner for some intense spot-cleaning. For heavy stains, use a chemical cleaner. But if the stain is very minute or if it is relatively light, then simply use a sponge and some soap and water to take out those light stains.

To Bleach or Not to Bleach…

If the carpet requires a little bleaching, then spray on some hydrogen peroxide mixed with water. Wait for fifteen minutes and then rinse off the chemical using a mixture of cold water and white vinegar. Wipe the entire area off using a soft and absorbent cloth. Use just a little hydrogen peroxide to avoid severely bleaching a spot on your carpet.

Use Shaving Cream (?!)

Another solution that some people swear by is that using a small amount of shaving cream can help reduce or even completely remove stains. I haven’t tried this method but I believe that shaving cream won’t be able to remove all the different type of stains your carpet might have.

Drying Your Carpet:

As much as possible, try to dry your carpet outside your vehicle. This allows your auto carpet to dry completely. Leaving your carpet wet or damp inside your vehicle can make it highly prone to corrosive agents like mildew and mold—not to mention it could also cause rusting on your vehicle’s floors.

When You Should Take It to the Professionals:

While you can handle most carpet-cleaning tasks, if you’re faced with a stain that spreads out over a huge area in your carpeting, then it’s always best to take it to the pros.

If the damage is too extensive then another option is to have your carpets replaced completely.

Source: cleaning.tips.net

Tips on Applying for a Car Loan After Filing For Bankruptcy

2008-06-23T20:50:00.000-07:00

Bankruptcy is the worst type of nightmare for most business-oriented folks. Connotations are easily attached to this word, and most of the time, we tend to equate bankruptcy to being hopelessly broke. While there is some truth to this assumption, bear in mind that being broke is almost never a hopeless case. While we all may dread bankruptcy, you can still get through it by making the right investments.

Before flat-out giving you tips on how to apply for a car loan (and get approved!) after filing for bankruptcy, let’s first take the time to fully comprehend what bankruptcy is.

Understanding Bankruptcy

Bankruptcy is the state of having insufficient assets to pay off all of your debts. After a person files for bankruptcy, all of his or her assets will be divided. These assets will be sent to the creditors as a form of payment for all the debts that have been incurred. Depending on where you live, you’ll have different rules regarding what counts (and what doesn’t) as bankruptcy. Most of the time, proceedings on filling for bankruptcy must be done according to rules and procedures of the bankruptcy court—this way, no one gets financially cheated.

Why You Should Avoid Bankruptcy

If the risk of having all your possessions repossessed isn’t scaring you yet, bankruptcy should be avoided because to can also affect your credibility every time you apply for loans or credit cards. After filing for bankruptcy, this status remains in your files and will be mentioned in your credit card for up to ten years. So every time you do decide to get a loan or to take credit, you run the risk of not getting the full amount that you applied for.

Tips on Getting a Car Loan after Bankruptcy

So, now that we’ve covered the basics of bankruptcy and why it should be avoided, here are some easy tips on how you can get a car loan and be approved easily.

Tip #1: If you can, wait two years after filing for bankruptcy to file for a car loan. A lot can happen in two years—both good and bad. But here’s to hoping you get your accounts in order. Waiting for two years increases your interest rates, but it also puts you at the best position to show that you’re already more financially stable.

Besides, the bigger the down payment you’re able to make, the more qualified you become for a loan or credit. Let’s just say, two years after filing for bankruptcy, you’re considered more eligible for a loan compared to asking for a loan immediately after filing for bankruptcy. Lenders will view you less as a risk and more as a worthy investment.

Tip #2: Before applying for your loan, do check the statements in your credit report. You’ve already hit pretty much rock-bottom financially after you filed for bankruptcy, but you need to make sure that there’s nothing your credit report (unnecessary details and wrongful claims) that could bring more damage to your credibility. Recheck to see if you still have any more undisclosed accounts in your report. If you do, settle them before sending your credit report.

Tip #3: Attach a note to your credit report explaining the reason behind you filing for bankruptcy. Why you filed for bankruptcy can either increase or decrease your chances of getting approved for a car loan. If the reasons behind your bankruptcy are beyond your control, meaning: you just lost your job, encountered a family emergency, became sick or you just had a nasty divorce, then future lenders will be more understanding. But don’t lie to your lender. Falsifying information can completely ruin your credibility, thwarting any chances of getting a car loan any time soon.

Tip #4: Ask yourself: “Am I really ready for a car loan?” A new car loan means additional expenses and more financial obligations. Because you’ve been bankrupt before, you seriously can’t avoid to be late with your payments. Before choosing a random car loan or choosing just any car that you like, first find out how much money you’re willing to set aside for your car loan.

Also look for the best loan term for you. The World Wide Web (aka the Intarwebs) can help you find various online lenders who might just help you.

When choosing cars, be realistic. Go for the car that you can pay for without any problems. In short, consider your budget. If it means letting go of the hot sports car that you’ve been eyeing for a normal SUV, then so be it. Live within you means—the best advice I got from my dad.

Tip #5: Try to get help from a reputable car loan lender. The right car loan lender can lead you to the right financier, even if you do have a record of bankruptcy. Most car loan lenders also have partnerships with other lenders and car dealers that especially cater to people with bad credit histories. Just make sure you do a background check on your car loan lender before entrusting him or her with your money.

Tip #6: Do explain the reason behind your bankruptcy. It’s important that your car loan lender understands why you had to file for bankruptcy. Also explain to your car loan lender the steps you’ve taken to be more financially stable, and your plans on how you can keep yourself from bouncing back to your previous financial situation. If you have improved your financial position, then the lender shouldn’t have problems approving your application.

Use these tips to rebuild your life and keep in mind that your life doesn’t end with bankruptcy. You can overcome it. All you have to do is make the right financial investments and work hard to improve your financial conditions before applying for any loans. That being said, good luck finding a car loan lender. Avoid getting sucked in by promises from shady lenders out there. Look for the best deals online and check the background of each company or lender before signing anything.